From ebefff7726775f763f1c1a6972073c0eabc0b3aa Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2023 22:15:32 +0100 Subject: Started drafting a corset --- source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst | 1 + .../single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst | 168 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit | 38 +++++ .../single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val | 102 +++++++++++++ 4 files changed, 309 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 3b96774..c266de8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -8,4 +8,5 @@ combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index 1904_combination_suit/index + single_layer_midbust_corset/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e037678 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,168 @@ +Single Layer Midbust Corset +=========================== + +.. figure:: + :align: center + +This is a simple corset in 6 panels, suitable for a generic victorian + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* less than 1 m of strong corset fabric, e.g. coutil. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* strong sewing thread to match the fabric; +* boning: either ~ 14 m 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 10 mmspiral + steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel; +* one steel busk; +* ~ 4 m 25 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same + amount premade boning channel tape; +* less than 1 m 10 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* buttonhole twist silk for flossing. + +Pattern +------- + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern +file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These measurements should be taken while wearing just modern underwear +(including a well fitting bra); a tight camisole with side seams can +help to take the arc measurements, and it's helpful to mark at least the +waist, but ideally all of the circumferences with tape. + +Full circumferences: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Circumference around Bust; +``lowbust_circ`` (G05) + Circumference under the breasts; +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Circumference around the Waist; +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + Circumference at the hip bone level; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Circumference around the widest part of the hips; + +The same measurements, just on the front, from an ideal side seam to an +ideal side seam: + +``bust_arc_f`` (G12) + ; +``lowbust_arc_f`` (G13) + ; +``waist_arc_f`` (G15) + ; +``highhip_arc_f`` (G16) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G17) + ; + +And the corresponding back arcs; in the valentina file these are +calculated from the two measurements above (but you may want to take +these measurements as a double check): + +``bust_arc_b`` (G28) + ; +``lowbust_arc_b`` (G29) + ; +``waist_arc_b`` (G31) + ; +``highhip_arc_b`` (G32) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G33) + ; + +Vertical measurements; except for the first one taken straight in the +front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the heights +where the above measurements had been taken: + +``armpit_to_waist_side`` (H03) + this is used to check the height of the corset under the armpit and + should follow the curve of the body; +``bust_to_waist_f`` (H10) + ; +``lowbust_to_waist_f`` (H11) + ; +``waist_to_highhip_f`` (H30) + ; +``waist_to_hip_f`` (H31) + ; + +And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets: + +``reduced_waist_circ`` + this can be the natural waist, a couple of cm less, or more if you so + desire. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`midbust_corset.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables: + +``waist_to_top_f`` + from the waist to the top of the corset in the front: around the + measurement of ``bust_to_waist`` is usually good; +``waist_to_top_side`` + from the waist to the top of the corset under the armpit: this should + be less than ``armpit_to_waist_side``; +``waist_to_top_b`` + from the waist to the top of the corset on the back: often, but not + always, the same as ``waist_to_top_f``; +``waist_to_bottom_f`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center front; +``waist_to_bottom_side`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset on the side; +``waist_to_bottom_b`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center back: often, + but not always, the same as ``waist_to_bottom_f``; +``lacing_gap`` + usually 5 - 10 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + 2 cm will allow for easy adjustments of the pattern. + + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 of panels 2-5, cut 2 of panels 1 and 5 *on the fold* (both the +center front and the center back panels will have two layers, everything +else will be single layer). + +Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. + + +Variants +-------- + +Boning Variant +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of having two wide bones per seam, you can use narrower boning +and add an additional bone in the middle of each panel. + +To do so, after you've inserted the busk sew a channel in the middle of +each panel except for the back ones, perpendicular to the waist line, +and then proceed as per the instructions above. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..27a24d8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..534577f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val @@ -0,0 +1,102 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + -- cgit v1.2.3