From eac9363fd06ac1f67f6ae297383bc24bcf713277 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2024 19:23:37 +0100 Subject: Started pattern for the 1838 shift --- .../1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst | 299 ++ .../measurements.vit | 21 + .../plate_6_fig_6.svg | 46 + .../1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val | 239 ++ .../shift_layout.svg | 4053 ++++++++++++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst | 1 + 6 files changed, 4659 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/plate_6_fig_6.svg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift_layout.svg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a0339b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,299 @@ +1838 Shift with Shoulder Straps +=============================== + +.. figure:: plate_6_fig_6.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, +with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters. + +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + 1 Length of shoulder-strap 23 20 17 #shoulder_strap_length + 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width + 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width + 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_lenght + 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side + 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length + 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width + 9 Lenght of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length +10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + +.. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the + regularity in grading. + +For modern bodies I would adapt them as follows: measure from the top of +the shoulder to where you want your neckline to be, somewhere around the +highbust, and use it to choose your size column for most other +measurements except for the lenght of sleeve-band, to be based on the +circumference of your upper arm plus 1 cm for ease, and the lenght of +plaited sleeve (i.e. the width of the sleeve), which should be about +twice the sleeve band. + +As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width +of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 +cm wide, on modern fabric the front and back can be cut side to side, as +long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger +sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, +somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. + +The side gores should be somewhere between 10 and 15 cm wide at the top, +in such a way that the remaining fabric (including the bosom gores) is +enough to go around the bust with 1-2 cm of ease. + +There is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just +the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Measure and cut the front and back from the full width of the fabric, +side to side on wide fabric or one on top of the other on narrow. + +If the sleeves fit nicely in the width of the fabric cut them +horizontally, if making more than one shift it may be more convenient to +cut them vertically. + +Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and +bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. + +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`1838_drawers` note that + many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the drawers. + +.. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be + cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the + latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave + more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps cut in + one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance on + the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + +Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are +perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the +middle of the side seam, open it again. + +Fold the fabric in half on the vertical and carefully align all four +edges, measure on the top edge, from the side, the width of the gore and +cut a triangle from there to a point 3-4 cm below the middle of the +body. + +.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle + of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing + allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an + angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to + give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula, + but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance, + will usually make it good enough. + +.. figure:: shift_layout.svg + :align: center + +Gores +^^^^^ + +Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which +side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and +press; right sides together put the body on top of the gore, aligning it +so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to +the gore from the wrong side of the body. + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the gore covers the raw edge of +the body, and hemstitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +seam. + +Bosom Gores +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped +slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the +bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). + +Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side +by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about +one allowance wide. + +Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. + +Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place +and applique-stitch from the right side + +and hemstitch from the wrong side. + +Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the +wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. + +Gussets +^^^^^^^ + +Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, hemstitch. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the +sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the +sleeve, sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +to keep the pleats in place. + +Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, +press. + +Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and +applique stitch the folded edge. + +Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance +towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the +raw edges, press. + +Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. + +Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with +the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. + +Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the +band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one +side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and +hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from +the band and stopping at the pin. + +Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem +all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. + +Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing +all raw edges. + +Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the +gusset and the other side of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: + Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on the three + other raw edges. + + Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. + + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and + whipstitch until the end of the gusset; + + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right + sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and + continuing into the sleeve. + + And then finish the band as above. + + This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the + sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be + used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional + work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer. + +Shoulder Straps +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, +mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. + +Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. + +Side seams +^^^^^^^^^^ + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of tbe +back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and +mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. + +Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. + +Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece +over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is +one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the +back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and +stopping at the point marked for the gusset. + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the back, and +hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. + +Attaching the sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, +pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides +together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short +edges. + +Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the +shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and +whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. + +Turn inside out. + +Hem +^^^ + +Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. + +Front Ruffle +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as +the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm +high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. + +TODO: gather and attach + +Variants +-------- + + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4caa03f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/plate_6_fig_6.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/plate_6_fig_6.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c83fe17 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/plate_6_fig_6.svg @@ -0,0 +1,46 @@ + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8cfa52c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val @@ -0,0 +1,239 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + + + 1838 Shift with Shoulder Strap + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
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+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift_layout.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift_layout.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e7cff1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift_layout.svg @@ -0,0 +1,4053 @@ + + + + Sheet 1 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + B + + + + + side_gore + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + B + + + + + side_gore + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + B + + + + + side_gore + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + B + + + + + side_gore + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + F + + + + + gusset + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + F + + + + + gusset + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + D + + + + + sleeve + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + D + + + + + sleeve + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + C + + + + + shoulder_strap + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + C + + + + + shoulder_strap + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + A + + + + + body + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + A + + + + + body + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + E + + + + + sleeve_band + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + E + + + + + sleeve_band + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 85c7294..ff0f8b4 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -10,4 +10,5 @@ 1904_combination_suit/index single_layer_midbust_corset/index early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index + 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index -- cgit v1.2.3