From d1e08bf1e70739236584023c21a4113f3e5b91cb Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2022 20:35:04 +0200 Subject: Jeans: new pattern --- source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst | 2 + .../basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg | Bin 0 -> 692638 bytes .../basic_jeans/0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg | Bin 0 -> 907484 bytes .../basic_jeans/0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 777132 bytes .../trousers/basic_jeans/0103-front_pocketing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1014171 bytes .../0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1060029 bytes .../trousers/basic_jeans/0105-pocket_bottom.jpg | Bin 0 -> 833700 bytes .../basic_jeans/0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpg | Bin 0 -> 829261 bytes .../trousers/basic_jeans/0107-basted_fronts.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1057574 bytes .../trousers/basic_jeans/0201-placket_facing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 740222 bytes .../basic_jeans/0202-placket_extension.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1132787 bytes .../basic_jeans/0203-center_front_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1041276 bytes 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+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
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+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b31452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,439 @@ +Basic Jeans +=========== + +.. figure:: trousers_front.jpg + :align: center + +Classic 4 pockets [#four]_ jeans with a zippered front. + +This pattern is suitable to make regular jeans, but also technical +pants, when using appropriate fabric, and of course the legs can be +shortened to above the knee for the summer. + +.. [#four] Adding the fifth pocket should be trivial, and may be added + to a future version of the pattern, but, I, er… forgot it. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy, + heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant + 2nd layer fabric; * 50 cm pocket fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern; +* a suitable button; +* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic; +* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as + it won't show). + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``waist_natural_circ`` (O03) + circumference of the trousers waist, about 5 cm below the waist; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the seat; +``rise_length_side_sitting`` (N04) + body rise, sitting on a stool; +``leg_crotch_to_floor`` (M01) + from crotch level to the floor, between the legs; + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`basic_jeans.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible +and you probably only need to set ``easy_fitting``, ``waist_ease`` and +``jeans_bottom_width``. + +``seam_allowance`` + this is the total sewing allowance, and should be big enough for flat + felled seams; e.g. 2 cm; +``easy_fitting`` + set this to 1 to make the pattern easy fitting, to 0 for a tigher + fit; +``waist_ease`` + e.g. 2 cm; with prominent (and squishy) bellies it's better to add + no waist ease; +``jeans_bottom_width`` + width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 20 cm gives a + straight cut on average sizes; +``floor_to_hem`` + distance from the floor to the desired hem of the trousers, e.g. 6 + cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how long the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in width, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in depth, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``fly_piece_length`` + how long the fly piece should be; take care that it isn't as long as + to end on the heavily curved portion of the front seam, e.g. 14 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; +``waistband_height`` + e.g. 4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the two sets of pocket bags from pocketing fabric. +Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly piece from +the folded fabric. +Cut either the straight or the shaped fly piece from the scraps, once +with all seam allowances and once with the shorter vertical edge on the +fold of fabric. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + + Sewing the fronts first and then the backs will get rid of most + tricky bits sooner rather than later. + + If you prefer to start with an easier part, you can follow the + instructions in the :ref:`basic_jeans_back` section, and then return here to + prepare the fronts. + +.. figure:: 0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the edges of the side pieces with bias tape. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg + + If the fabric isn't very thick, you can also cut the side pieces with + 1 cm of allowance on the curved edge and press it towards the back + once instead of binding it. + + +.. figure:: 0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpg + :align: center + +Put it on the second pocket bag pieces, wrong side over the right side, +and sew down the curved edge 2 mm from the edge and then again in the +ditch of the bias tape. +Baste the top and side of the side piece to the pocket at 1–1.5 cm from +the edge. Treat them as one piece. + + +.. figure:: 0103-front_pocketing.jpg + :align: center + +Put the first pocket bag pieces on the fronts, right sides together, sew +the opening. + +.. figure:: 0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Press open, notch the allowances and press the pocket +towards the wrong side of the front, making the fabric overlab a tiny +bit so that the pocketing won't show on the front. +Topstitch at 2 mm and 8 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0105-pocket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the lower, curved edge of the pocket with a french seam: put the +pocket bag pieces with the *outer* sides facing and sew 8 mm from the +edge. + +.. figure:: 0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpg + :align: center + +Press, notch the curves, turn the pocket bags so that the inner sides +are facing, sew 1 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0107-basted_fronts.jpg + :align: center + +Align the end of the front opening to the marks on the pocket facings +and baste the pockets to the fronts at the top and side; from now on treat +them as one piece. + +Placket +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-placket_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric +once) to the *left* front stopping at the notch, press towards the wrong +side. + +.. figure:: 0202-placket_extension.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the +fold) to the *right* front stopping at the notch, press so that it +extends from the front. Press in half, and press the remaining +allowance so that it will remain enclosed in the placket. + +.. figure:: 0203-center_front_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the rest of the front seam, starting from the +notch and keeping the placket away from the seam, press open. + +.. figure:: 0204-clipped_allowance_center_front.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowances of the legs at the notch, check that all placket +pieces can move to the inside. + +.. figure:: 0205-flat_felled_center_front.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance of the left leg of the front seam, press and flat +fell towards the left leg. + +.. note:: + + This seam is done with the allowances on the inside rather than + outside like the other flat felled seams; doing otherwise would + result in a bit of unfinished allowance at the front. + +.. figure:: 0206-placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the bottom of the placket extension at half +the sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0206-placket_extension_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out and topstitch the placket extension close to the +vertical seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-placket_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-placket_inside.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down by 1 cm the raw edges of the placket facing (or bind them with +tape), topstitch it down close to all 3 edges of the facing. + +If adding buttons, you can now sew the bottom of the placket close by +topstitching from the front, but if adding a zipper wait until later. + +.. _basic_jeans_back: + +Back +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-back_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the edges of the back pocket once, and the top edge twice, +press. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch the back pockets to the backs where marked on the pattern, +using two lines of stitching at 2 mm and 1 cm from the edge, and sewing +little triangles near the top for reinforcement. + +.. figure:: 0303-sewn_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the back yokes to the backs, press open. + +.. figure:: 0304-flat-felled_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the yoke allowances and press up and fold the back allowances to +fell them, topstitch at about 8 mm from the seam. + +.. figure:: 0305-sewn_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the center back seam; + +.. figure:: 0306-felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +fell and topstitch it towards the right side. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-sewn_inseam.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0402-flat_felled_inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the inseam. Press open, press towards the back +to flat fell and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0403-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Right seams together, sew the side seams. Bind the edges together with +tape, press towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0404-side_seam_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +If desired, top stitch the allowance of the side seam at 1 cm from the +seam. + +.. tip:: + + If using lighter fabric or making shorts you can also flat fell the + side seams; topstitching throught the tube of the legs can however + turn out to be either annoying or outright difficult, and I wouldn't + even attempt it with denim or similar heavyweight fabric. + + If you're not sure, binding the edges with tape and *then* + topstitching is safer than flat felling, as this way you can easily + unpick the (partial) topstitching seam if it gets too hard to sew, + and the edges will be already finished and on the right side. + +Waistband +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-waistband_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the waistband to the trousers, leaving 2 cm at +each end. + +.. figure:: 0502-waistband_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband right sides together, sew the sides, clip the +corners, turn inside out and press. + +Press the remaining edge of the waistband down 2 cm, press the waistband +in half so that it encloses all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0504-waistband_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +With a 3-step zig-zag, sew 8 cm of elastic centered on each side seam +and pulled over 10 cm of the raw edges. + +Topstitch the waistband closed at 2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four +edges, pulling while sewing over the elastic. + +Front closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + + This isn't the traditional way to put a zipper in the front of jeans, + and it's a bit less neat; however it works just as well, the non-neat + parts are hidden from view when the trousers are worn, and it makes + it way more easy to change the zipper when it breaks, as it only + requires unpicking the zipper seams and a bit of whipstitching. + +.. figure:: 0601-left_zipper.jpg + :align: center + +Center the closed zipper on the placket extension, taking care that it +doesn't extend to the visible part of the front. Machine sew the left +part of the zipper close to its border and then again closer to the +teeth, using a zipper foot and moving the cursor out of the way with the +needle in the fabric while close to it.. + +.. figure:: 0602-pinned_placket.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0603-right_zipper.jpg + :align: center + +Close the zipper again, pin the trousers closed and sew the right side +of the zipper to the placket facing by hand with two lines of +backstitch, taking care to only catch the facing and not the fabric on +the front. + +.. figure:: 0604-placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Whipstitch the bottom of the placket closed. + +Attach a button centered above the placket on the waistband and sew the +corresponding buttonhole on the other end of the waistband, above the +part with the facing. + +Hems +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of each leg twice 1 cm, topstitch at 2 mm and again at +8 mm from the folded edge. + +Belt Loops +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-loops.jpg + :align: center + +From the scraps, cut 6 rectangles 8 cm long and 3 cm wide; fold them +approximately in thirds, press and sew a wide zig zag through the whole +length. + +.. figure:: 0802-loops_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0803-loops_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top and bottom edges a bit less than 1 cm and topstitch +the loops to the trousers, backstitching back and forth, around the +waistband e.g. at 4 cm from the center back, 6 cm from the side seams +(towards the back) and 8 cm from the center front. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: trousers_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df7d5db --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..57a784b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5b3467 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7adc8b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********** + Trousers +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + basic_jeans/index + -- cgit v1.2.3