From cfdbc938dd97b5f9b78ca888735e01a4c70ef106 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 4 May 2026 20:40:11 +0200 Subject: Started instructions for old style sleeves --- .../shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 35 ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 35 insertions(+) diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 997f9a8..a5a0eb6 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -754,6 +754,41 @@ Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt. +Old Style Sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To make old style straight sleeves with a gusset, cut two rectangles as +long as ``sleeve_length`` and as wide as ``sleeve_width`` and two +squares for the gussets: note that this style of sleeve works best when +it's quite wide, at least 3/4 of the body width is probably best; as for +the gusset, 20-25 cm is usually good. + +Put a side of a sleeve over a gusset, aligned at the top, and with the +gusset one sewing allowance out from the sleeve, sew with a (running) +backstitch from the top until one sewing allowance from the end of the +gusset. Press the allowances open and then towards the sleeve, but don't +finish the seam. + +Fold the sleeve in half lenghtwise, right sides together, fold the +gusset on the diagonal and align it and the rest of the sleeve over the +free side of the sleeve, at one sewing allowance from the edge, sew down +the gusset and then continue through the sleeve. Press the allowance +open, and then towards the side with the gusset. + +Fold the wider allowance of the gusset over the narrower allowance of +the sleeve to make a flat-felled seam, then the wider allowance of the +sleeve over that of the gusset and the rest of the seam, making sure +that at the point of the gusset everything is neat. Hemstitch. + +Repeat with the other sleeve, making sure to make the sleeves +symmetrical, so that on each sleeve all seams are pressed towards the +back. + +Open a slit and add the cuff like in the instructions above, noting that +there will be significantly more sleeve material to be gathered in the +cuff. + + Gallery ------- -- cgit v1.2.3