From bcf38f3275e2b414a01ea380450d8b85e6a29f73 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2022 23:24:11 +0200 Subject: A Pair of Pockets, initial instructions. --- source/accessories/bags/index.rst | 1 + source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst | 145 ++++++++++++ .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1251945 bytes .../pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1487794 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf | Bin 0 -> 339303 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg | 256 +++++++++++++++++++++ source/bibliography/index.rst | 5 + source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 + source/bibliography/web.bib | 8 + source/conf.py | 1 + 10 files changed, 424 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg create mode 100644 source/bibliography/web.bib diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst index c8185a8..f85f7fa 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ drawstring_backpack/index modular_backpack_base/index + pair_of_pockets/index diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0630697 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Pair of Pockets +=============== + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg + :align: center + +In the 18th and parts of the 19th century, pockets for women were an +accessory not attached to any garment, but tied around the waist and +worn under the skirt (the more modest and privacy-respecting way) or on +top of it (for convenience, usually done just by the working classes). + +Beside being significantly bigger than what is usually found in modern +womenswear clothing (but not necessarily the ones found in the +ones from the 19th century), they have the advantage of not letting the +weight of the contents hang from the fabric of a garment, and thus they +are a good match to ligtweight skirts or ones made from knit fabric. + +Or, since it's the 2020s and there is no sense of decency anymore :D one +can wear them on top of a pair of jeans, visible to anybody. + +Historical pockets were quite diverse: a good overview of their history +is in :cite:`2019:pocket` (or a very short version in +:cite:`2021:vampockets`), and an internet search will get you lots of +historical examples to reproduce or take inspiration from, as well as +people who made their own pockets and publish instructions, some of +which are listed in the :ref:`pockets_see_also` section. + +This is just one way to make a pair of pockets which works and is easy +enough to do; if you are so inclined the rabbit hole of historical +construction methods can offer you many hours of research and making. + +I sew most of my pockets by hand, as it is a quick and easy project, +but machine sewing is also an option, especially for more modern +variants. To sew by machine, lockstitch where the instructions say to +backstitch, and topstitch instead of hem/applique-stitching. + +Materials +--------- + +* Fabric: about 40 cm of strong cotton or linen; +* optional, about 40 cm of dense cotton or linen for a lining; +* 2.4 m edge binding (bias or straight); +* 1.5 m tape; +* sewing thread. + +This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you +don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical +examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for these pockets is a vaguely pear shaped bag with a slit +in the top half of the front, often more than 40 cm deep. If you're not +reproducing an existing pocket you may want to download my own pattern, +which has the width and height of a B4 sheet and is on the smaller end +of typical historical sizes: + +:download:`pockets_B4.svg` + SVG source, can be scaled to taste; +:download:`pockets_B4-A4.pdf` + PDF, tiled on two A4 sheet; + +Instructions +------------ + +If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric +before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider +leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your +binding. + +Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the +back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may +catch on it) also cut the pattern four times in lining. + +If using a lining, lay it on the wrong side of each panel, baste it and +from now on treat as one. + +Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. + +If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the +raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of +the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. + +If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it +over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and +then hemstitch the wrong side. + +Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges +towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides +to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and +hemstitching to the wrong. + +Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides +together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. + +Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the +slit. + +Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin +the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are +symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. + +.. tip:: + If you're making more than one pair of pockets, put them at different + distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit + better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. + +Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. + +Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, +folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the +tape at the sides; whipstitch the two tapes at the top, enclosing the +raw edge of the pocket. + +Fold down the ends of the long tape, hemstitch them down to finish even +these raw edges. + +Your pair of pockets is done! + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg + :align: center + +.. _pockets_see_also: + +See Also +-------- + +In the 2020s, pockets are IN, at least in the online sewing community: +this is a small selection of people who made their own pockets. + +* `Make your own Pocket (Victoria and Albert Museum) + `_ +* `Pair of pockets (Miss Hendrie's Workbook) + `_ +* `Making an Embroidered Pocket (Tea in a Teacup) + `_ +* `If they can't fit pockets in our clothes, we'll bring back POCKETS AS + FASHION (Bernadette Banners) + `_ +* `Linen pocket (Josefin Waltin spinner) + `_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5f034a Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7617443 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e10997 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4368721 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg @@ -0,0 +1,256 @@ + + + + + Pair of Pockets + + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + Pair of Pockets + + 2018-07-04 + + + Elena ``of Valhalla'' + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Pair of Pockets + This square should be 10 cm on all sides to make B4 sized pockets,or 8.4 cm for an A4 sized one. + Embroider fabric to taste, keeping at least 1 cminside the outlineCut 2 of fabricIf embroidering, cut 2 of lining, lay on the back ofthe embroidered panels and treat as one.(Or cheat, and use sturdy prints.)Cut the opening as marked from the front panel.Lay the two panels with wrong sides together,sew all around 5 mm from the edge.Cover the raw edges of the sides, bottom andopening with tape or ribbon.Repeat for the second pocket.Cover the top edges of both pockets with a tapelong enough to go around your waist and be tied. + + + + + front opening + + + diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst index cafdc6f..fd75ae4 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/index.rst +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -14,3 +14,8 @@ Miscellaneous .. bibliography:: misc.bib :all: +Websites +======== + +.. bibliography:: web.bib + :all: diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 26a36fd..22ae67e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -20,3 +20,11 @@ year = {1896}, url = "https://archive.org/details/krl00001156", } + +@Book{2019:pocket + author = {Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux}, + title = {The Pocket — A Hidden History of Women's Lives}, + publisher = {Yale University Press}, + year = {2019}, + url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL29481979M/Pocket", +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ca93ae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@misc{2021:vampockets + author = {Victoria and Albert Museum}, + title = {Women's tie-on pockets}, + year = {2021}, + url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets", + note = "Accessed 2022-04-18", +} + diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index 09c46d8..60da271 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -83,4 +83,5 @@ latex_elements = { bibtex_bibfiles = [ "bibliography/drafting.bib", "bibliography/misc.bib", + "bibliography/web.bib", ] -- cgit v1.2.3