From ac340afa81b973c2aa583079570079ff86a6ca53 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2022 18:24:22 +0200 Subject: 1892 skirt: new pattern. --- source/historical_womenswear/index.rst | 2 + .../1892_foundation_skirt/01-binding_edges.jpg | Bin 0 -> 714748 bytes .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/02-sewn_darts.png | Bin 0 -> 1803903 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/03-flatlined_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1090775 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/04-pinked_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1029908 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/05-sewn_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1270174 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/06-folded_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1244585 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/07-sewn_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1252069 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/08-folded_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1399947 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/09-basted_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1381595 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/10-sewn_side_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1422488 bytes .../11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg | Bin 0 -> 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source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 7649ed0..86dae5a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ considered womenswear. .. toctree:: :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + + skirts/index diff --git 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new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1e2e3f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -0,0 +1,342 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) + +https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc + +The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, so that the same pattern can be used even if they differ significantly (e.g. for bustle era skirts). + + Foundation Skirt, straight hem + + Cutter's Practical Guide + + + + + + + + + measurements.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 112 + 113 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 74 + 75 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6b158b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c97b573 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d63777 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,420 @@ +1892 Foundation Skirt +===================== + +.. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +A foundation skirt based on the instructions on `The Cutters’ Practical +Guide to the Cutting of Ladies’ Garments +`_ from 1892, +adapted to let the hem lie on the cross-grain for ease of cutting, +especially when using patterned fabric. + +While this manual is from the 1890s, the cut of this skirt resembles +more the skirts of the natural form and second bustle eras rather than +the A-line skirts typical of the full 1890s and works well worn with +anything from a small bustle pad to a full bustle cage. + +In an historical context, this skirt would be a base with a layer of +drapery on top, often mounted in the same waistband to reduce bulk. +For historybounding and for variety it can also be made separate from +the drapery, to be able to change the look of the outfit (or to skip the +drapery for a simpler modern option). + +Most of the skirt is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an +historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with few +handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full skirt is also an +option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a +backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of skirt fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton, + linen or wool; +* optional, about 2 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen; +* 50 cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing; +* 20 cm pocket fabric. + +When choosing the fabric, consider whether the skirt will have a +permanently attached drapery: if so you can use a cheap, plain fabric +for the underskirt, and add an external facing in the fancy fabric to +cover just the bottom edge which will show. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* 5 m bias binding to finish the raw edges (any colour, as it won't + show); +* about 2 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge. +* skirt hook; +* snaps. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_waist_front`` (A13) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center front; +``height_waist_side`` (A05) + height from the waist to the ground, measured on the side, going over + the hips; +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; +``waist_circ`` (G07) + circumference of the waist; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips. + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``waistband_height`` + e.g. 3 cm; +``placket_width`` + e.g. 3 cm; +``placket_length`` + length of the placket opening, e.g. 28 cm; +``pocket_distance_from_waist`` + how low from the waist the pocket should start, e.g. 6 cm; +``pocket_opening`` + how wide the pocket is, e.g. 18 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket is, e.g. 40 cm (my pocketing material is 80 cm + wide, and I use a full width, with selvedges on both sides); +``height_hem_ground`` + the desired distance from ground to the hem; 10 cm is good for a + walking length skirt. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Straighten the grain of the fabric and cut any big rectangular piece +such as the belt band and strips for a ruffle. + +Cut the main panels of the skirt, first the front and then the back one, +on the fold of the fabric. + +Cut the facing for the placket opening from the narrow leftovers at the +bottom of the front panel, using the selvedge to get one finished edge +on each. + +.. tip:: + + If you are also making a matching waist or jacket, it is often + practical to cut the skirt panels first, and then distribute as many + waist / jacket pieces as possible on the leftovers. + +If desired, cut the front and back panel from the lining. + +Cut the pocket from a sturdy material. + +Cut the facing for the hem. If the main fabric is lightweight or very +draping also cut the placket facing once in the same fabric. + +Sewing preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If lining the skirt, put the lining on top of each panel, wrong sides +together, and baste all four sides; from now on treat as one piece. + +.. figure:: 01-binding_edges.jpg + :align: center + + Binding the edges with a binding foot is faster, but if you don't + have one it can be done with the regular foot by being careful. + +Bind all four long edges of the skirt with bias tape to protect the raw +edges; it's easier to do so now than after the pocket and opening have +been attached. + +.. note:: + + Binding the edges with bias tape is part of my own modern obsession + with fully enclosed raw edges: historically it was done on high-end + garments, but more common alternatives include overcasting the edges + by hand, pinking them or even leaving them raw, especially with + non-fraying wool, and overlocking is of course a valid modern + alternative. + +.. figure:: 02-sewn_darts.png + :align: center + +Fold with right sides facing and sew the first two or three dart pairs +from the center, leaving at least one to be folded in a pleat. Press +towards the sides. + +Placket opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 03-flatlined_placket.jpg + :align: center + +If your fabric needs it, flatline one of the placket facings with the +sturdy fabric, basting all around. + +.. figure:: 04-pinked_placket.jpg + :align: center + +With the wrong side facing up, keep the selvedge of that placket piece +on the right and finish the bottom edge with pinking or by overcasting +the edges (here there will be too much bulk for a bias tape finish). + +.. figure:: 05-sewn_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back piece of the skirt with the right side facing up and place +this placket piece on its left side, right sides facing. Sew with 2 cm +allowance, press towards the placket. + +.. figure:: 06-folded_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the placket piece in half so that it just covers the seam and +stitch in the ditch from the right side to tack it down. + +With the wrong side facing up, keep the selvedge of the other placket +piece on the left and finish the bottom edge as before. + +.. figure:: 07-sewn_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the front piece of the skirt with the rigth side facing up and place +the placket piece on its right side, right sides facing. Sew with 2 cm +allowance, press open and then press towards the skirt. + +.. figure:: 08-folded_placket.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 09-basted_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the placket in half so that the selvedges just reaches the seam, +press and baste down the top edge where the waistband will be. + +.. figure:: 10-sewn_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back on the front piecs, right sides together, and sew the side +seam starting from the hem and reaching 1.5 cm into the placket, taking +care to check that this last part perfectly aligns with both seams in +the placket. Check on the right side that the placket aligns smoothly +and that the opening is hidden in the seam and press flat. + +.. figure:: 11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +From the wrong side, extend the two plackets from the skirt, align their +bottom and sew it at 1.4 cm from the edge, stopping just where the side +seam starts. + +Pocket +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 12-pocket_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew one short edge of the pocket to the front panel +between the V notches. Again right sides together, sew the other short +edge of the pocket to the back panel, taking care not to twist the +pocket material. Press the allowances towards the skirt. + +If you didn't use the selvedges finish the raw edges of the pocket. + +.. figure:: 13-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the front and the back of the skirt, right sides facing and with the +pocket extended; starting from the top sew the side seam down to 1.5 cm +into the pocket, backstitch 2-3 stitches for strength. +Start again from the end and sew the rest of the side seam until 1.5 cm +into the pocket, backstitch again 2-3 stitches for strenght. + +.. figure:: 14-check_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +On the right side, check that the pocket is correctly hidden in the seam +and then press the side seam open. + +.. note:: + + Since this pocket doesn't have a facing in the skirt material it + won't be completely hidden from sight, but the amount of material in + that part of the skirt means that gaping should be a rare occurrence, + and anyway it will be further hidden by a pleat. + + +.. figure:: 15-sewn_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sides of the pocket with 1 cm sewing allowance, catching just +the sewing allowances of the pocket, but not those of the skirt. +Finish the raw edges with bias tape, or by overcasting them by hand. + +.. note:: + + This style of pocket isn't tacked down to one side like regular + pockets, because I've found that at times it is useful to be able to + move it either towards the back, so that it is hidden in the fullness + or towards the side, so that it is easier to reach into while sitting + (and safely out of the way of your own *seat*). + +Pleating and waistband +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The full width of the back panel should be reduced to just about 8 cm +starting with an inverted box pleat at the center back and overlapping +knife pleats in the same direction on each side. + +.. figure:: 16-pleated_back.jpg + :align: center + +Using steel pins (so that you can press on top of them) fold, press and +pin each pleat near the top and a few cm down the skirt working from the +center to the sides. + +Without removing the pins, very carefully baste the pleats 1 cm from the +top edge (to do this by machine you may want to crank it by hand, so +that you can easily stop and adjust if the needle is getting too close +to a pin). + +.. note:: + + If you want to add fixed draperies, prepare them and baste them to + the skirt during the next step, so that they are sandwitched bewtween + the right side of the waistband and the right side of the skirt. + +.. figure:: 17-attached_waistband_and_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, place the waistband over the back panel, then find +the middle point of the remaining waistband and pin it to the center +front of the skirt; keep pinning towards the sides until you get close +to the end, and then fold the excess skirt into two pleats that just +about cover the opening placket and the pocket. +Sew at 2 cm from the top, carefully removing the pins from the pleats +just before sewing that part. +Remove also the bottom line of pins, try the skirt on and if everything +is ok press the allowance towards the waistband. + +.. figure:: 18-waistband_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Righe sides together, fold the waistband in half and sew the ends just +where the skirt ends. Press, trim the corners and fold inside out. + +.. figure:: 19-folded_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Press the waistband in half, and then press the raw edge inside so that +the folded edge just touches the waistband seam. Hemstitch by hand to +the skirt to enclose all raw edges. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 19a-elastic_in_the_waistband.jpg + + If you want to wear the skirt both with and without a corset, or if + you suffer from a bit of waistline variation, you can sew a bit of + elastic to the waistband allowances with an elastic seam (here I've + cheated and used 3-step zig-zag) while keeping the elastic under + tension. + + This will gather a bit the waistband over the back, but the effect + will be mild, and it will give a bit of give to make the skirt adapt + more to slightely different waist measurements. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 20-hem_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the sides of the hem facing, press open. Press +2 cm at the top towards the back. + +.. figure:: 21-attached_facing.jpg + :align: center + + +.. figure:: 22-pressed_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing all around the bottom of the skirt, +press open and then press the facing inside the skirt, letting a tiny +bit of the skirt show towards the back. + +Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt by hand. + +Add a protection to the hem of the skirt: either sew an hem protector +tape to the inside or bind the edge with wool braid. + +Sew a skirt hook and bar to the waistband and a combination of snaps and +hook and eyes to the placket. + +Decoration +^^^^^^^^^^ + +Your skirt is already wearable as-is for modern wear; in the late 19th +century it was supposed to be a base for draperies and decoration. + +For draperies, you need reference material (fashion plates, pictures, +original dresses, …) from the specific years you are interested about, +and then you can take a big rectangle of muslin and play with it, +pinning it to the foundation skirt and/or to tape (hint: safety pins are +your friend) until it looks good, and then sewing it down. + +One bit of decoration that was extremely common was a pleated ruffle at +the hem of the skirt, meant to work also as a structural help to keep +the hem spread out and attached either outside (for decoration) or +inside the skirt (to be there just for the structural functionalities). + +To make one, cut enough strips of fabric, 15 cm high, to get a long +strip that is 3 times the width of the skirt about 10 cm from the hem; +sew them selvedge to selvedge, right sides together, and hem the top and +bottom by folding it down twice 8 mm. If you had to cut one end of the +strip instead of using the selvedge also hem the cut end. + +.. figure:: pressing_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from one selvedge, fold, pin and press deep box pleats (4 – 5 +cm per side) until the end of the strip, trying to let the seams fall in +the hidden part of the pleats. + +.. figure:: ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg + :align: center + +You can sew the ruffle either directly to the skirt, or first to tape +and then to the skirt, to make it easier to remove if you want to change +styles. +In either case, sew it about 2 cm from the top of the ruffle, and let +the bottom of the ruffle reach to just below the hem of the skirt (if +sewn outside) or just above (if sewn inside). + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5bea17 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f7c172 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea90d9b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6494ef1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +******** + Skirts +******** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1892_foundation_skirt/index + -- cgit v1.2.3