From 8c9d9849aadd860721ac1fe8aa7b9a39f504373e Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2023 13:13:57 +0100 Subject: Migrated the blocks based on Cutter's Practical Guide from another repo --- source/bibliography/drafting.bib | 2 +- .../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit | 38 ++ .../drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val | 216 +++++++++ .../drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst | 117 +++++ .../drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val | 521 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../drafting_methods/index.rst | 11 + source/historical_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + .../foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val | 10 +- .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst | 6 +- 9 files changed, 914 insertions(+), 8 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib index 4d09b45..080614e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", - note = "", + note = "See also https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_cutters\%27_practical_guide_to_the_cutting_of_ladies\%27_garments for plates 2 and 3, missing on the archive.org copy.", } @Book{1909:american diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4965a96 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d6c88d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val @@ -0,0 +1,216 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + + + Foundation Skirt + + Cutter's Practical Guide + + + + + + + + + cutters.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 71 + 72 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 74 + 75 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dec05d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,117 @@ +The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments +============================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`. + +At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they +have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances +from Valentina used instead. + +All measurements have also been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book +itself. + +Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3 + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle + +Skirts and Trousers +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Riding Habits etc. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +S. B. tight-fitting Jacket +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate +21. + +* :download:`ladies_jacket.val` + +Skirt +^^^^^ + +Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38. + +* :download:`foundation_skirt.val` + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7854452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val @@ -0,0 +1,521 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + + + Tight Fitting Ladies Jacket + + + + + + + + + + + cutters.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 265 + 266 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 267 + 268 + + +

+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..89b8387 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +**************************************** + Historical Womenswear Drafting Methods +**************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + cutters/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index d67d4c7..dd4ddf8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -12,3 +12,4 @@ considered womenswear. skirts/index accessories/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val index c1e2e3f..c10a1da 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ - + 0.9.0 cm Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, - measurements.vit + ../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit @@ -306,7 +306,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, - + @@ -322,12 +322,12 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, - + - + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index 0ec412f..9c5908a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -55,6 +55,8 @@ Notions Pattern ------- +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -73,8 +75,8 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ -- cgit v1.2.3