From 880bf6ad068fafbdbce41b2c6c3576ea7cb03445 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2023 20:37:55 +0100
Subject: Small collar improvements

---
 .../historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val | 112 +++++++++++----------
 .../historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst   |   7 +-
 2 files changed, 62 insertions(+), 57 deletions(-)

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val
index bb3108b..89777f5 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/collars.val
@@ -3,14 +3,14 @@
     <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
     <version>0.9.1</version>
     <unit>cm</unit>
-    <description></description>
-    <notes></notes>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
     <patternName>Collar collection</patternName>
-    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
-    <company></company>
-    <customer></customer>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <customer/>
     <birthDate>2000-01-01</birthDate>
-    <email></email>
+    <email/>
     <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
         <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
@@ -18,10 +18,16 @@
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
-        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="collar: %finalMeasurement_collar%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="collar: %finalMeasurement_collar% cm"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="collar height: %finalMeasurement_collar_height% cm"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="stand height: %finalMeasurement_stand_height% cm"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="front angle: %finalMeasurement_front_angle%°"/>
     </patternLabel>
     <finalMeasurements>
         <finalMeasurment formula="#collar_circumference" name="collar"/>
+        <finalMeasurment formula="#collar_height" name="collar_height"/>
+        <finalMeasurment formula="#stand_height" name="stand_height"/>
+        <finalMeasurment description="in degrees" formula="#front_angle" name="front_angle"/>
     </finalMeasurements>
     <measurements/>
     <increments>
@@ -53,7 +59,7 @@
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" color="black" id="15" length1="0.6" length2="0.6" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="13" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="11" id="16" length="-#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point angle="#front_angle" basePoint="6" id="17" length="#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="18" length="#stand_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="18" length="#collar_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="3" id="19" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C2" secondPoint="18" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A5_A11 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" duplicate="1" id="38" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="6" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A5_A11 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" id="39" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="16" type="simpleInteractive"/>
@@ -61,50 +67,48 @@
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A2_E1 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A_A4 - 180" color="black" id="52" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="51" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
-            <point id="20" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="21" idObject="2" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="22" idObject="18" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="23" idObject="19" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="25" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="26" idObject="18" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="27" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="28" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="-2.04242" my="-0.624258" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="29" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="30" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="-1.36167" my="-2.13705" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="31" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="32" idObject="12" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="33" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="34" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="35" idObject="10" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="37" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="40" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="41" idObject="39" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="42" idObject="16" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="43" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="44" idObject="38" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="45" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="47" idObject="16" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="48" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="49" idObject="11" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="50" idObject="5" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="53" idObject="51" inUse="false" mx="-2.49626" my="-1.72103" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="54" idObject="52" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="55" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="56" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="57" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="-1.49361" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="59" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="60" idObject="10" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="61" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="62" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="63" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="64" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="65" idObject="39" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
-            <point id="66" idObject="16" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="67" idObject="16" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="68" idObject="5" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="20" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="21" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="22" idObject="18" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="23" idObject="19" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="25" idObject="2" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="26" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="27" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="28" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="-2.04242" my="-0.624258" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="29" idObject="15" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="30" idObject="13" inUse="false" mx="-1.36167" my="-2.13705" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="31" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="32" idObject="12" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="33" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="34" idObject="5" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="35" idObject="10" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="37" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="40" idObject="17" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="41" idObject="39" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="42" idObject="16" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="43" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="44" idObject="38" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="45" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="47" idObject="16" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="48" idObject="11" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="49" idObject="11" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="50" idObject="5" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="55" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="56" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="57" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="-1.49361" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="59" idObject="5" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="60" idObject="10" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="61" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="62" idObject="15" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="63" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="64" idObject="17" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="65" idObject="39" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="66" idObject="16" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="67" idObject="16" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="68" idObject="5" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="24" inLayout="false" mx="0.0567158" my="2.21192" name="straight_collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{88bd1f5d-3a2c-4894-a19e-88520fd84b0c}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="24" mx="0.0567158" my="2.21192" name="straight_collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{88bd1f5d-3a2c-4894-a19e-88520fd84b0c}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="199.354" my="38.6456" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
@@ -124,15 +128,15 @@
                     <record>26</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="36" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="stand" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e6d6d64f-ad01-434b-8451-ada5a1ec8325}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="36" mx="0.0372187" my="-0.0372187" name="stand" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e6d6d64f-ad01-434b-8451-ada5a1ec8325}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="A" mx="209.502" my="-116.459" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mInterlining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
                 </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="42.6406" my="-92.8121" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="50" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="49" visible="true"/>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="39.4628" my="-112.961" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="50" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="49" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="28" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -150,7 +154,7 @@
                     <record>50</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="46" inLayout="false" mx="0.0567158" my="-0.0567158" name="collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e80ece5a-57a2-41be-84a1-01e43c03ab44}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="46" mx="0.0567158" my="-0.0567158" name="collar" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e80ece5a-57a2-41be-84a1-01e43c03ab44}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="B" mx="250.47" my="-345.89" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst
index 8fc7136..3b4d3c5 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/collars/index.rst
@@ -45,10 +45,11 @@ styling:
    circumference of the collar, as measured on the shirt you want to use
    this collar with;
 ``stand_height``
-   height of the stand, for two parts collars, or the full collar for
-   standing collars: change this for the desired style;
+   height of the stand, for two parts collars change this for the
+   desired style;
 ``collar_height``
-   height of the collar proper: change this for the desired style;
+   height of the collar proper, or the full straightcollar: change this
+   for the desired style;
 ``front_angle``
    angle of the front of the collar;
 
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