From 2a49131aad5986548c02b0d6a201595c1fbdca2b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2022 20:47:11 +0100 Subject: Start writing pattern for a nightgown --- .../underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst | 135 ++++++++++++++++++ .../liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val | 151 +++++++++++++++++++++ 2 files changed, 286 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e18d60a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,135 @@ +Liliana Nightgown +================= + +.. .. figure:: + :align: center + + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric. + +Yarn +^^^^ + +* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread matching the yarn; +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Yoke Pattern +------------ + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. + +the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`. + +Fabric Pattern +-------------- + +After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end +of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for +sewing allowances. + +The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance +measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` +measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. + +The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length +of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Yoke +^^^^ + +Following the shape of the pattern, ignoring the sewing allowances, make +the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding +a decorative pattern to the front. + +Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to +make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with +sewing allowances. + +Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is +appropriate for the tecnique used. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the +body and the two sleeves. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the +fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. + +Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are +covered and topstitch. + +Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, +sew about 2 mm from the fold. + +Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and +fold down its top edge. + +Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your +machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use +that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple +straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the +body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any +scalloped edge of the yoke. + +Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the +excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the +sides. + +Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the +armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..be2b221 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val @@ -0,0 +1,151 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Sleeping gown with crochet yoke + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition. + + Liliana Nightgown Yoke + + + + + + + + + + + ../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 103 + + +
+ + + -- cgit v1.2.3 From 277916bae2cc1e5d935c0ce4121b171da0ccc5bd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2022 21:27:55 +0100 Subject: Parts of the nightgown --- .../liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1075034 bytes .../liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1142936 bytes .../underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst | 15 ++++++++++++++- 3 files changed, 14 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe4a6d7 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e89c0d Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst index e18d60a..bf03a24 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -4,6 +4,7 @@ Liliana Nightgown .. .. figure:: :align: center +This nightgown is named after my great-aunt Materials --------- @@ -77,7 +78,7 @@ Instructions Yoke ^^^^ -Following the shape of the pattern, ignoring the sewing allowances, make +Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding a decorative pattern to the front. @@ -97,6 +98,9 @@ body and the two sleeves. Sewing ^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg + :align: center + Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. @@ -110,6 +114,15 @@ sew about 2 mm from the fold. Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and fold down its top edge. +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + + Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical, + and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the + back. + Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple -- cgit v1.2.3 From 43b7e9884010e5ac87d58d9d1e3ff11722a134a9 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2022 22:00:04 +0100 Subject: Add the underwear section to the index --- source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst | 10 ++++++++++ 2 files changed, 11 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 437fa2e..5aace70 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -10,4 +10,5 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :caption: Contents: trousers/index + underwear/index measurements/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9059e89 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +************************* + Underwear and nightwear +************************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + liliana_nightgown/index + -- cgit v1.2.3 From 24274389ace5a5e1578bfbd9a1501301ef663ace Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 15:37:25 +0100 Subject: Completed instructions and pictures for the nightgown. --- 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b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst index bf03a24..7a3bfeb 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -1,10 +1,21 @@ Liliana Nightgown ================= -.. .. figure:: +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg :align: center -This nightgown is named after my great-aunt +This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns +with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole +extended family. + +While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance +to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can +definitely be used as one. + +Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted +yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the +shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight +seams and just a few pleats for shaping. Materials --------- @@ -12,12 +23,26 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric. +* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton + or linen fabric. + +In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course +white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's +underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and +cheaper options are fine). Yarn ^^^^ -* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. +* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if +used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1 +– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have +been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2 +– 2.5 mm hook. + +Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric. Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -65,6 +90,11 @@ After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for sewing allowances. +.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below): + for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is + recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the + sides. + The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. @@ -78,6 +108,19 @@ Instructions Yoke ^^^^ +.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg + :align: center + + The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom + it's completely made of empty squares. + +.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg + :align: center + + The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the + bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in + the middle of it. + Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding a decorative pattern to the front. @@ -101,13 +144,19 @@ Sewing .. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg :align: center -Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. +.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are covered and topstitch. +.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, sew about 2 mm from the fold. @@ -123,22 +172,39 @@ fold down its top edge. and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the back. +.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. +.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg + :align: center + Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. +.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any scalloped edge of the yoke. -Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the -excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the -sides. +Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the +center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points +of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides; +distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making +pleats that face towards the center back. -Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. +Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. @@ -146,3 +212,8 @@ armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. Gallery ------- +.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker + yarn and the body in white ramie. diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c606bd Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg differ -- cgit v1.2.3