From 4443b0ba5437c84c7123f2c00a85342d0bdfb454 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2024 21:08:08 +0100
Subject: Start drawers pattern
---
.../underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val | 114 +++++++++++++++++++++
.../underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst | 99 ++++++++++++++++++
.../underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit | 20 ++++
source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst | 1 +
4 files changed, 234 insertions(+)
create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val
create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..df3ae69
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val
@@ -0,0 +1,114 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+ <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.9.1</version>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <description/>
+ <notes/>
+ <patternName>1838 drawers</patternName>
+ <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+ <company></company>
+ <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+ <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+ </patternLabel>
+ <measurements path="measurements.vit"/>
+ <increments>
+ <increment description="half the width of the fabric for modern wide fabric, the full width for historical ones (should be around 80 cm)" formula="80" name="#fabric_width"/>
+ <increment formula="min(#fabric_width;hip_circ)" name="#total_width"/>
+ <increment formula="leg_waist_side_to_ankle + 6" name="#total_height"/>
+ <increment description="half the circumference of the leg at the hem" formula="23" name="#leg_hem_width"/>
+ <increment description="vertical distance between the waist in the front and in the back" formula="6" name="#waist_drop"/>
+ <increment description="waist circumference plus a small overlap if buttoning in the front, or a larger one (up to 10 cm) if buttoning in the back" formula="waist_circ + 3" name="#waistband_lenght"/>
+ <increment formula="17" name="#waistband_height"/>
+ </increments>
+ <previewCalculations/>
+ <draw name="drawers">
+ <calculation>
+ <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="G" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+ <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength * 7 / 15" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="#waist_drop" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="F" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="5" length="#total_width / 2 - 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Z" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="6" length="#total_width / 14 * 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="S" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="7" length="#total_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="8" length="#leg_hem_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="3" id="9" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E1" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="2" id="10" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="11" length="#waistband_lenght" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="12" length="#waistband_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="11" id="13" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W3" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="14" length="waist_circ" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W4" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="14" id="15" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W5" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ </calculation>
+ <modeling>
+ <point id="16" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="17" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="18" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="19" idObject="9" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="20" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="21" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="22" idObject="7" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="24" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="25" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="26" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="27" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="29" idObject="15" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="30" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="31" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="overlap_line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </path>
+ <point id="32" idObject="1" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="33" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ </modeling>
+ <details>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="23" mx="0" my="0" name="leg" uuid="{6f01202d-3a20-4ce1-814f-1ae46d66daaf}" version="2" width="1">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="-1006.51" my="155.699" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-565.64" my="147.381" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="33" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="32" visible="true"/>
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="17" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="19" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ <pins>
+ <record>32</record>
+ <record>33</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="0" my="0" name="waistband" uuid="{793aa3fb-acc6-4b6d-afa8-d59f8eb199d0}" version="2" width="1">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="544.975" my="-470.289" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="112.426" my="-461.97" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="31"/>
+ </iPaths>
+ </detail>
+ </details>
+ </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e5007e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,99 @@
+1838 Drawers
+============
+
+.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg
+ :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+ .. contents::
+
+:cite:`1838:workwoman`
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm
+ wide.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one
+size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*;
+they are, converted to cm:
+
+
+====== ==
+meas cm
+====== ==
+width 80
+length 86
+A to B 23
+B to C 46
+C to G 40
+C to E 40
+F to G 6
+F to S 29
+====== ==
+
+For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the
+distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and
+allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern)
+fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the
+hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to
+*twice* the circumference of the hips).
+
+For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between
+the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested
+measurements, and scale everything else in proportion.
+
+For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for
+the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe
+3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back.
+
+There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these
+calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding
+:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are
+included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows).
+
+Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd
+reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table
+and measuring them directly on the fabric.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+
+
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+
+See also
+--------
+
+* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/
+* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/
+* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/
+* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..92fd2b5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+ <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.5.2</version>
+ <read-only>false</read-only>
+ <notes/>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+ <personal>
+ <customer/>
+ <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+ <gender>unknown</gender>
+ <email/>
+ </personal>
+ <body-measurements>
+ <m name="hip_circ" value="85"/>
+ <m name="waist_circ" value="60"/>
+ <m name="leg_waist_side_to_ankle" value="80"/>
+ </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
index c7e5381..fee8a48 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
@@ -10,4 +10,5 @@
1904_combination_suit/index
single_layer_midbust_corset/index
1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index
+ 1838_drawers/index
--
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