From 98e26de5443a8da82fdfc9fa56ade981d82c28bb Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2022 20:26:47 +0100
Subject: New pattern: bathrobe

---
 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst   | 10 +++
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst       | 93 ++++++++++++++++++++++
 2 files changed, 103 insertions(+)
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0c4938
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+*************
+ Leisurewear
+*************
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   low_waste_bathrobe/index
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d106e73
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,93 @@
+Low Waste Bathrobe
+==================
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 2 m of towel material;
+* 20 cm cotton jersey.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
+   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee (or to where
+   you want the bathrobe to end);
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+   from armscye to armscye on the back;
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist;
+``shoulder_length`` (I01)
+   distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder;
+``armscye_circ`` (L19)
+   circumference around the armscye.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the fabric and as high
+as the desired length of the bathrobe (A18) plus 2 cm sewing allowance.
+
+Near the top, mark the quarter points, where you will cut the armscye
+slits. From each quarter point, measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08)
+towards the center back, and measure the position of the center back
+seam, which should be ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long.
+Mark two slits, 5 cm tall for the belt in the pleat fabric, parallel to
+the seam at about 2 cm of distance, and aligned with the end of the
+seam.
+
+For the sleeves, measure two rectangles as tall as half the width of the
+fabric and as high as ``armscye_circ`` (L19) plus 4 cm allowance.
+
+For the belt, measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the
+fabric, and 10 cm long.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the rectangles described in the Pattern section; mark the position
+of the armscye slits with a partial cut 5–10 cm long, but don't cut them
+fully until you're ready to insert the sleeves.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   As long as the selvedges aren't horribly different from the fabric,
+   don't cut them away, but let them be part of the pattern pieces.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From 25fef89cd7196ccfae9732b64af0f44cc8cb424d Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2022 17:40:17 +0100
Subject: Bathrobe: instructions

---
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst       | 70 +++++++++++++++++++++-
 1 file changed, 67 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-)

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
index d106e73..a9ce40c 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
@@ -16,7 +16,11 @@ Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
 * About 2 m of towel material;
-* 20 cm cotton jersey.
+* 15 cm cotton jersey in a matching or contrasting color, for binding.
+
+The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all
+directions: honeycomb is a great choice, while terry may be a bit tricky
+to work.
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -66,7 +70,6 @@ fabric, and 10 cm long.
 Instructions
 ------------
 
-
 Cutting
 ^^^^^^^
 
@@ -79,14 +82,75 @@ fully until you're ready to insert the sleeves.
    As long as the selvedges aren't horribly different from the fabric,
    don't cut them away, but let them be part of the pattern pieces.
 
-Sewing
+From the jersey, cut cross-grain strips 4-5 cm wide for the binding;
+with wide jersey 3 strips will usually be enough.
+
+Slits
 ^^^^^^
 
+From the binding, cut two rectangles 8-9 cm tall, mark a rectangle 1 cm
+wide and 5 cm tall in their middle and align them over the slits marked
+on the fabric, on the right side.
+
+Sew over the rectangle, carefully cut the slit in the center, angling
+towards the corners.
+
+Pass the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit
+to keep it in place.
+
+Pleat
+^^^^^
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the center back pleat.
+
+Baste the pleat flat near the top border.
+
+From the scraps cut a rectangle about 3 cm wide, fold in in 3 and sew it
+in the middle with a wide zig-zag.
+
+Sew its short sides to the top border, near the center of the pleats.
+
+Shoulders
+^^^^^^^^^
 
+Wrong sides together, put the front over the back and sew
+``shoulder_length`` (I01) starting from each sleeve slit with 8 mm
+allowance.
+
+Turn inside out, and sew again at 1 cm allowance to make a french seam.
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+Wrong sides together, align one long side of the sleeve at 1 cm distance
+from the other, and sew with a 2 cm sewing allowance.
+
+Repeat with the other sleeve, taking care to do so simmetrically.
+
+Fold the large allowances over the smaller one and topstitch to flat
+fell.
+
+Finish cutting the sleeve slits on the body.
+
+Wrong sides together, insert each sleeve in the body, pinning the sleeve
+seam at the bottom of the slit.
+
+Sew with a seam allowance of 8 mm, starting just before the bottom of
+the slit and ending just after it, so that there is a double line of
+sewing for strenght.
+
+Turn the sleeve inside out, sew again with a 1 cm allowance to finish
+the french seam, sewing again twice near the bottom of the slit.
 
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^
 
+Right sides together, sew the binding all around the edge of the
+bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding
+to the sleeve cuffs.
+
+Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch
+it by hand.
 
 Gallery
 -------
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From b40b370fb80d4ae806a4d1a5e4d52d8eb6b3a69b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 09:56:48 +0100
Subject: Added pictures to the bathrobe (and small edits)

---
 source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst               |   2 +
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1599746 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg   | Bin 0 -> 1708000 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1135361 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0202-basted_pleat.jpg       | Bin 0 -> 962581 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0204-hanging_loop.jpg       | Bin 0 -> 868910 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0301-shoulders.jpg          | Bin 0 -> 1321488 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0302-shoulders.jpg          | Bin 0 -> 1097770 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0401-sleeves.jpg            | Bin 0 -> 997552 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0402-felled_sleeve.jpg      | Bin 0 -> 917854 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg    | Bin 0 -> 849233 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg | Bin 0 -> 675200 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0501-binding.jpg            | Bin 0 -> 1501528 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0601-belt_sewn.jpg          | Bin 0 -> 697872 bytes
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/0602-belt_finished.jpg      | Bin 0 -> 560437 bytes
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.jpg    | Bin 0 -> 956102 bytes
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg    | 291 +++++++++++++++++++++
 .../low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg           | Bin 0 -> 886279 bytes
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst       |  74 +++++-
 19 files changed, 359 insertions(+), 8 deletions(-)
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0202-basted_pleat.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0204-hanging_loop.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0301-shoulders.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0302-shoulders.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0401-sleeves.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0402-felled_sleeve.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0501-binding.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0601-belt_sewn.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0602-belt_finished.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.jpg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg
 create mode 100644 source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
index a3bd070..e192d6b 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst
@@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ breasts.
 .. toctree::
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
+
+   leisurewear/index
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.jpg
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..852e6cb
--- /dev/null
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@@ -0,0 +1,291 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?>
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+
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c34b148
Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
index a9ce40c..5f31732 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
@@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
 Low Waste Bathrobe
 ==================
 
-.. figure:: 
+.. figure:: bathrobe.jpg
    :align: center
 
 .. only:: html
@@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ Materials
 Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
-* About 2 m of towel material;
+* Less than 2 m of towel material (see the pattern below for precise amounts);
 * 15 cm cotton jersey in a matching or contrasting color, for binding.
 
 The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all
@@ -50,13 +50,17 @@ You need to take the following measurements:
 Pattern
 ^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: bathrobe.svg
+   :align: center
+
 Measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the fabric and as high
 as the desired length of the bathrobe (A18) plus 2 cm sewing allowance.
 
 Near the top, mark the quarter points, where you will cut the armscye
-slits. From each quarter point, measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08)
-towards the center back, and measure the position of the center back
-seam, which should be ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long.
+slits, half ``armscye_circ`` (L19) long. From each quarter point,
+measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08) towards the center back, and
+measure the position of the center back seam, which should be
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long.
 Mark two slits, 5 cm tall for the belt in the pleat fabric, parallel to
 the seam at about 2 cm of distance, and aligned with the end of the
 seam.
@@ -88,50 +92,81 @@ with wide jersey 3 strips will usually be enough.
 Slits
 ^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 From the binding, cut two rectangles 8-9 cm tall, mark a rectangle 1 cm
 wide and 5 cm tall in their middle and align them over the slits marked
 on the fabric, on the right side.
 
+.. figure:: 0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Sew over the rectangle, carefully cut the slit in the center, angling
 towards the corners.
 
-Pass the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit
+.. figure:: 0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit
 to keep it in place.
 
 Pleat
 ^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0202-basted_pleat.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Wrong sides together, sew the center back pleat.
 
 Baste the pleat flat near the top border.
 
-From the scraps cut a rectangle about 3 cm wide, fold in in 3 and sew it
-in the middle with a wide zig-zag.
+.. figure:: 0204-hanging_loop.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If you have scraps from straighening the fabric, cut a rectangle about 3
+cm wide and 10 cm long, fold in in 3 and sew it in the middle with a
+wide zig-zag, otherwise you can use a bit of sturdy ribbon.
 
 Sew its short sides to the top border, near the center of the pleats.
 
 Shoulders
 ^^^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0301-shoulders.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Wrong sides together, put the front over the back and sew
 ``shoulder_length`` (I01) starting from each sleeve slit with 8 mm
 allowance.
 
+.. figure:: 0302-shoulders.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Turn inside out, and sew again at 1 cm allowance to make a french seam.
 
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0401-sleeves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Wrong sides together, align one long side of the sleeve at 1 cm distance
 from the other, and sew with a 2 cm sewing allowance.
 
 Repeat with the other sleeve, taking care to do so simmetrically.
 
+.. figure:: 0402-felled_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Fold the large allowances over the smaller one and topstitch to flat
 fell.
 
 Finish cutting the sleeve slits on the body.
 
+.. figure:: 0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Wrong sides together, insert each sleeve in the body, pinning the sleeve
 seam at the bottom of the slit.
 
@@ -139,12 +174,18 @@ Sew with a seam allowance of 8 mm, starting just before the bottom of
 the slit and ending just after it, so that there is a double line of
 sewing for strenght.
 
+.. figure:: 0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Turn the sleeve inside out, sew again with a 1 cm allowance to finish
 the french seam, sewing again twice near the bottom of the slit.
 
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0501-binding.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Right sides together, sew the binding all around the edge of the
 bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding
 to the sleeve cuffs.
@@ -152,6 +193,23 @@ to the sleeve cuffs.
 Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch
 it by hand.
 
+Belt
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0601-belt_sewn.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the belt in half lengthwise, sew at 1 cm from the side.
+
+.. figure:: 0602-belt_finished.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn inside out; if you're using the selvedge of the fabric there will
+be no need to finish the ends.
+
 Gallery
 -------
 
+.. figure:: bathrobe_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From b8b49c87e59145739a459b64aca845d35597224a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2023 20:42:49 +0100
Subject: Finished bathrobe

---
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg    | 12 ++++-----
 .../leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst       | 30 ++++++++++++++++++++--
 2 files changed, 34 insertions(+), 8 deletions(-)

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg
index 852e6cb..6dc6615 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg
@@ -78,11 +78,11 @@
        id="path960" />
     <path
        style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1"
-       d="M 238.11024,132.28346 V 151.1811"
+       d="M 253.22835,132.28346 V 151.1811"
        id="path1107" />
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+       d="M 351.49607,132.28346 V 151.1811"
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@@ -260,25 +260,25 @@
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        x="-143.62206"
-       y="226.77165"
+       y="272.12598"
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        transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan
          sodipodi:role="line"
          id="tspan12897-64-8-3-8"
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        xml:space="preserve"
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+         y="343.93701"
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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
index 5f31732..07b49c3 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst
@@ -8,6 +8,18 @@ Low Waste Bathrobe
 
    .. contents::
 
+This is a simple bathrobe made out of fabric rectangles, shaped by a
+single pleat in the center back and a self-fabric belt.
+
+It is a pretty quick project (making it took me about half a day), but
+maybe not the best for beginner sewists, as inserting the sleeves can be
+a bit fiddly.
+
+I'm calling it low waste rather than no-waste because folding up the
+sleeves to make cuffs rather than cutting them down to the correct
+length (and having a leftover) sounds like cheating (and the pleat in
+the back is a *design choice*, but also a bit of cheating with regards
+to fabric waste).
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -20,7 +32,12 @@ Fabric
 
 The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all
 directions: honeycomb is a great choice, while terry may be a bit tricky
-to work.
+to work with.
+
+Specifically, the sleeves and the end of the shoulder seam towards the
+neckline will require an elastic fabric; if not using one you can add
+small triangular gussets to ease the transition between the straight
+lines.
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -74,6 +91,15 @@ fabric, and 10 cm long.
 Instructions
 ------------
 
+When sewing it's important to use a stretch stitch to preserve the
+elasticity of the fabric: if your machine has a lighting bolt stretch
+stich you can use that, otherwise a narrow zig-zag (1.5 mm wide) will
+do.
+
+Since all seams are fully enclosed (either french or flat-felled) a
+serger is not required, and using one will require adjustment of the
+pattern.
+
 Cutting
 ^^^^^^^
 
@@ -191,7 +217,7 @@ bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding
 to the sleeve cuffs.
 
 Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch
-it by hand.
+it by hand or topstitch it from the right side.
 
 Belt
 ^^^^
-- 
cgit v1.2.3