From 3a2d09c18a636c0786b9431c4bfceab0f72f4651 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2024 10:09:59 +0100 Subject: Improvements to the menswear Jeans --- .../trousers/basic_jeans/0102a-coin_pocket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1226561 bytes .../trousers/basic_jeans/0102b-coin_pocket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 513452 bytes .../trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val | 118 +++++++++++++++++---- .../trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst | 41 ++++--- 4 files changed, 125 insertions(+), 34 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102a-coin_pocket.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102b-coin_pocket.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102a-coin_pocket.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102a-coin_pocket.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..39771f0 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102a-coin_pocket.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102b-coin_pocket.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102b-coin_pocket.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b112cb Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102b-coin_pocket.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val index 249de95..c9cb5dc 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ - - 0.9.0 + + 0.9.1 cm @@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ - measurements.vit + @@ -30,6 +30,8 @@ + + @@ -162,6 +164,9 @@ + + + @@ -305,6 +310,24 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
@@ -341,14 +364,14 @@ 106 - + - - + + @@ -379,8 +402,8 @@ - - + + @@ -395,14 +418,13 @@ 191 - - + + - - + @@ -478,12 +500,12 @@ - + - + @@ -495,7 +517,7 @@ - + @@ -510,7 +532,7 @@ - + @@ -529,14 +551,14 @@ 239 - - + + - + @@ -546,6 +568,58 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 263 + 264 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
@@ -558,7 +632,7 @@ - + @@ -589,7 +663,7 @@ - + @@ -615,7 +689,7 @@ - + diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst index 1b31452..401d7da 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -4,15 +4,12 @@ Basic Jeans .. figure:: trousers_front.jpg :align: center -Classic 4 pockets [#four]_ jeans with a zippered front. +Classic 5 pockets jeans with a zippered front. This pattern is suitable to make regular jeans, but also technical pants, when using appropriate fabric, and of course the legs can be shortened to above the knee for the summer. -.. [#four] Adding the fifth pocket should be trivial, and may be added - to a future version of the pattern, but, I, er… forgot it. - Materials --------- @@ -84,15 +81,21 @@ and you probably only need to set ``easy_fitting``, ``waist_ease`` and ``pocket_opening_depth`` how long the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; ``pocket_facing_width`` - how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in width, e.g. 3 cm; + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm; ``pocket_facing_depth`` - how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in depth, e.g. 5 cm; + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm; ``pocket_depth`` how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; ``pocket_depth_side`` where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; ``pocket_depth_front`` where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``coin_pocket_width`` + how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm; +``coin_pocket_depth`` + how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm; ``fly_piece_length`` how long the fly piece should be; take care that it isn't as long as to end on the heavily curved portion of the front seam, e.g. 14 cm; @@ -118,11 +121,9 @@ Cutting ^^^^^^^ Cut the two sets of pocket bags from pocketing fabric. -Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly piece from +Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly pieces the folded fabric. -Cut either the straight or the shaped fly piece from the scraps, once -with all seam allowances and once with the shorter vertical edge on the -fold of fabric. +Cut either the straight or the shaped fly pieces from the scraps. Fronts ^^^^^^ @@ -160,6 +161,22 @@ Baste the top and side of the side piece to the pocket at 1–1.5 cm from the edge. Treat them as one piece. +.. figure:: 0102a-coin_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold all the edges of the coin pocket towards the wrong side once, fold the +top edge a second time. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 +cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0102b-coin_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the coin pocket on top of the side piece and pocket, centered on the +side piece and about 4 cm down from the top edge; sew around the sides +and bottom edge at 2 mm and then again at 1 cm from the edges, adding +small triangles to the top corners for strength. + + .. figure:: 0103-front_pocketing.jpg :align: center @@ -200,14 +217,14 @@ Placket .. figure:: 0201-placket_facing.jpg :align: center -Wrong sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric +Right sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric once) to the *left* front stopping at the notch, press towards the wrong side. .. figure:: 0202-placket_extension.jpg :align: center -Wrong sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the +Right sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the fold) to the *right* front stopping at the notch, press so that it extends from the front. Press in half, and press the remaining allowance so that it will remain enclosed in the placket. -- cgit v1.2.3