From 379ee291b65c4815e9c5b829728cc3800d51ea26 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2026 18:47:26 +0200 Subject: New pattern: corset cover --- .../drafting_methods/american/american.vit | 37 +++ .../drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg | 53 ++++ .../drafting_methods/american/fig_2.svg | 53 ++++ .../drafting_methods/american/index.rst | 91 ++++++ .../drafting_methods/index.rst | 1 + .../1909_corset_cover/0201-folded_right_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 852758 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0202-sewn_right_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 928294 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0203-buttonholes.jpg | Bin 0 -> 906514 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0204-pinned_pleats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1011235 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0205-sewn_pleats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 997371 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0206-basted_pleats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 924094 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0301-sewn_left_pleat.jpg | Bin 0 -> 722645 bytes .../1909_corset_cover/0401-french_seam_01.jpg | Bin 0 -> 920518 bytes 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b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/american.vit @@ -0,0 +1,37 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c36f57c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_1.svg @@ -0,0 +1,53 @@ + + + +From https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/28/mode/2up diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_2.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_2.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4f97739 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/fig_2.svg @@ -0,0 +1,53 @@ + + + +From https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/28/mode/2up diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ff0e27 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,91 @@ +The American System of Dressmaking +================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1909:american`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`american.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start with general +instructions at page 17, then the measurements used in the waists are +described starting from page 20, those for the sleeve from page 53 and +those for the skirt from page 133. + +.. figure:: fig_1.svg + :align: center + +.. figure:: fig_2.svg + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Width of back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Under arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Armhole | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Length of sleeve | O14 | ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 shoulder to elbow | --- | ``@arm_armscye_back_center_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 inside arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Armhole | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + + +Blocks +------ + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst index 97321bc..95576c4 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -8,5 +8,6 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + american/index blair/index cutters/index diff --git 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b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover.val @@ -0,0 +1,254 @@ + + + + 0.9.1 + cm + Corset cover inspired by a drawing on the American System of Dressmaking + + corset_cover + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 61 + 62 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 76 + 77 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_american.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_american.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fba72bf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_american.svg @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ + + + + + + + + + + image/svg+xml + + + From https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/324/mode/1up + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_finished.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_finished.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..50aed50 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_finished.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_without_ribbon.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_without_ribbon.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5049e51 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/corset_cover_without_ribbon.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/folding_pattern.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/folding_pattern.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..97ea0bf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/folding_pattern.svg @@ -0,0 +1,84 @@ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c8a3dfa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1909_corset_cover/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,323 @@ +1909 Corset Cover +================= + +.. figure:: corset_cover_finished.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a simple corset cover based on the description on page 324 of +:cite:`1909:american`. + +.. figure:: corset_cover_american.svg + :align: center + + “The simple corset cover that involves little labor in the making is + the one that appeals to the great majority of women. The one + illustrated in Fig. 151 is just full enough to be pretty under the + fashionable blouses, and is especially designed for embroidery + flouncing.” + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1 m of regular width lightweight cotton or linen. + +The book recommends “embroidery flouncing”, ~40 cm wide fabric with +whitework embroidery; modern broderie anglaise fabric that is wider can +of course be used, and these instructions include all of the finishing +that is required by not having a suitable selvedge. + +Plain cotton or linen can of course be used for a less fancy, but still +perfectly practical, item. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* ~ 1.5 - 2.5 m beading lace +* ~ 2.5 - 4.5 m ribbon suitable for the beading lace; +* 8+ small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/american/index`. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/american/american.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`corset_cover.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``top_border`` + distance from the top of the armscye to the neck hem; +``peplum_depth`` + how tall the peplum should be; +``placket_width`` + width of the button placket on the front; +``sleeve_width`` + width of the sleeve; +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams; +``hem_allowance`` + e.g. 1 cm for narrow or rolled hems. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the main corset cover piece on the fold; the easiest method is to +cut the left and right sides the same, but if you want to optimize the +use of fabric you can cut the left side narrower, at the +``left_front_fold_line`` plus two placket width of seam allowance. + +Mark the folding lines, or print the folding guide and use that when +pressing the pleat. + +Cut the peplum two sleeve bands and two sleeve ruffles. + +Stay-stitch the armholes at about half the sewing allowance from the raw +edge. + +Right side +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: folding_pattern.svg + :align: center + +Fold and press the placket and the box pleat in the front like in the +diagram above: + +.. figure:: 0201-folded_right_front.jpg + :align: center + +start by making a fold on the centre front line, right sides together, +fold back one placket width and then fold under a box pleat that is +twice as wide as the placket width, fold back one and a half placket +width, and then fold the remaining fabric twice towards the wrong side +to make a placket. + +.. figure:: 0202-sewn_right_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Open the folds except for those of the placket, sew a straight seam at 1 +mm from both folded edges, starting from the top and sewing towards the +waist. + +.. figure:: 0203-buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + +Make buttonholes in the placket, starting about 3 cm from the top and +about every 3 cm. + +.. tip:: If you are making the buttonholes by hand you can postpone this + step to the finishing step, fully or in part, but when making + buttonholes by machine doing it before sewing down the pleat is much + easier. + +.. tip:: making buttonholes at every 3 cm will require significantly + more than 8 buttons (in the pictures it was 14 buttons): if you don't + have as many just spread out the number of buttons you have regularly + on the placket. + +.. figure:: 0204-pinned_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Fold back the pleat into position, open the fold of the placket back, +and carefully pin it into position, open the rest of the pleat; + +.. figure:: 0205-sewn_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +then sew a seam over the fold under the pleat and another one right +beside the edge of the placket, where it's seam is. Press back the pleat +into shape. + +.. figure:: 0206-basted_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the pleat in the hem allowance at the top and bottom. + +Left Side +^^^^^^^^^ + +Make a fold at the ``left_front_fold_line``, i.e. half the placket width +out from the centre front line, wrong sides together; fold the remaining +allowance under to make a placket, press. + +.. figure:: 0301-sewn_left_pleat.jpg + :align: center + +Sew a straight seam at 1 mm from both folded edges, starting from the +top and sewing towards the waist. + +Body +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-french_seam_01.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seams with a french seam: wrong sides together, sew the +side seams at a bit less than half the sewing allowance. Press and turn +right sides together. + +.. figure:: 0402-french_seam_02.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the side seams at a tiny bit more than half +the sewing allowance, press the enclosed allowances towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0403-narrow_hem_at_top.jpg + :align: center + +Make a narrow hem at the top. + +.. tip:: you can use a hemming foot for this hem, but you probably + want to fold the hem over the pleat in advance rather than making it + feed through the foot, because it's going to be pretty bulky. + +.. figure:: 0404-beading_lace_top.jpg + :align: center + +Sew beading lace on the top edge with two seams above and below the +eyeholes, folding the edges under and stopping on the left side at the +position where the fabric would go under the pleat on the right side, +making sure to stop the lower seam before the pleat. + +.. tip:: for best results, continue the lower seam by hand over the + pleat, catching only the top layer of the latter. + +Peplum +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-narrow_hem_peplum.jpg + :align: center + +Make a narrow hem all around the short ends and the bottom edge of the +peplum. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +Sew the short ends of the sleeves with a french seams: sew wrong sides +together at a bit less than half the sewing allowance, press, turn right +sides together and sew again at a tiny bit more than the sewing +allowance. Press the allowance in opposite directions. + +.. figure:: 0602-sewn_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the short ends of the ruffles with a french seam, as above. + +.. figure:: 0603-hemmed_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Make a narrow hem all around one side of the ruffles. + +Sew a gathering stitch on the remaining side of the ruffles, in the +sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0604-sewn_ruffles_first.jpg + :align: center + +Take one sleeve and one ruffle, so that the seams are pressed in +opposite directions, gather the ruffle on the sleeve leaving a bit more +fullness at the opposite side of the seam and sew with a french seam: +first wrong sides together at a bit less than half the allowance, then +right sides together at a tiny bit more than the allowance. + +.. figure:: 0605-sewn_ruffles_both.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the other sleeve. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-peplum_and_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the peplum on the body, pinning the back +straight, then the front ends right at the place where the front pleat +ends and placing the excess fabric from the front in two or three small +pleats on each side, facing outwards. + +.. figure:: 0702-peplum_flat_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Sew with a flat felled seam: sew at the sewing allowance; +then press the allowance up, trim the allowance from the body, fold the +allowance of the peplum so that it covers the raw edges; when you reach +the front use the same fold lines to hem the parts of the front that are +not covered by the peplum, topstitch in place. + +.. figure:: 0703-beading_lace_waist.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally sew beading lace also over the waist seam, putting the lower +seam over the seam between the body and the peplum, and again making +sure not to sew the top seam over the pleat. + +.. figure:: 0704-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sleeves to the body with a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0705-buttons.jpg + :align: center + +Attach the buttons to the left side placket. + +.. figure:: 0706-ribbon.jpg + :align: center + +Pass a narrow ribbon in the beading lace. + +Variants +-------- + +Simpler Sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of making a sleeve band and a ruffle you can make a sleeve band +that is a bit longer and gather it directly in the armscyes. + +Inverted Front +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Buttoning up the corset cover with the pleat on the right side may not +be the most comfortable position, so you may want to make the box pleat +on the left side and the placket on the right side. Everything else can +remain the same. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: corset_cover_without_ribbon.jpg + :align: center + + The corset cover before ribbon is threaded through the lace and + pulled to gather the neckline. + + +See also +-------- + +* `How to Make an Edwardian Corset Cover Without a Sewing Pattern `_ + a different take on the same inspiration source. diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 9a7e7e8..0338bfa 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -12,4 +12,5 @@ early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index 1838_drawers/index + 1909_corset_cover/index -- cgit v1.2.3