Pair of Pockets

From 995bb915a7f2d77b4ef90553b87f06e4f88240df Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2022 21:04:47 +0100 Subject: QR-Code for this site Pointing to the shortener at https://eoval.org/FxmdKr6a https://eoval.org/FxmdKr6a?delay=9999 --- source/get_the_source-inverted.svg | 110 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ source/get_the_source.svg | 90 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 2 files changed, 200 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/get_the_source-inverted.svg create mode 100644 source/get_the_source.svg diff --git a/source/get_the_source-inverted.svg b/source/get_the_source-inverted.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..22ba57c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/get_the_source-inverted.svg @@ -0,0 +1,110 @@ + + + + diff --git a/source/get_the_source.svg b/source/get_the_source.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bcb5e35 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/get_the_source.svg @@ -0,0 +1,90 @@ + + + + -- cgit v1.2.3 From ac340afa81b973c2aa583079570079ff86a6ca53 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2022 18:24:22 +0200 Subject: 1892 skirt: new pattern. --- source/historical_womenswear/index.rst | 2 + .../1892_foundation_skirt/01-binding_edges.jpg | Bin 0 -> 714748 bytes .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/02-sewn_darts.png | Bin 0 -> 1803903 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/03-flatlined_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1090775 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/04-pinked_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1029908 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/05-sewn_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1270174 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/06-folded_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1244585 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/07-sewn_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1252069 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/08-folded_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1399947 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/09-basted_placket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1381595 bytes .../1892_foundation_skirt/10-sewn_side_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1422488 bytes .../11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1231619 bytes 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new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c1e2e3f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -0,0 +1,342 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) + +https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc + +The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, so that the same pattern can be used even if they differ significantly (e.g. for bustle era skirts). + + Foundation Skirt, straight hem + + Cutter's Practical Guide + + + + + + + + + measurements.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 112 + 113 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 74 + 75 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6b158b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c97b573 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d63777 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,420 @@ +1892 Foundation Skirt +===================== + +.. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +A foundation skirt based on the instructions on `The Cutters’ Practical +Guide to the Cutting of Ladies’ Garments +`_ from 1892, +adapted to let the hem lie on the cross-grain for ease of cutting, +especially when using patterned fabric. + +While this manual is from the 1890s, the cut of this skirt resembles +more the skirts of the natural form and second bustle eras rather than +the A-line skirts typical of the full 1890s and works well worn with +anything from a small bustle pad to a full bustle cage. + +In an historical context, this skirt would be a base with a layer of +drapery on top, often mounted in the same waistband to reduce bulk. +For historybounding and for variety it can also be made separate from +the drapery, to be able to change the look of the outfit (or to skip the +drapery for a simpler modern option). + +Most of the skirt is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an +historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with few +handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full skirt is also an +option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a +backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of skirt fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton, + linen or wool; +* optional, about 2 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen; +* 50 cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing; +* 20 cm pocket fabric. + +When choosing the fabric, consider whether the skirt will have a +permanently attached drapery: if so you can use a cheap, plain fabric +for the underskirt, and add an external facing in the fancy fabric to +cover just the bottom edge which will show. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* 5 m bias binding to finish the raw edges (any colour, as it won't + show); +* about 2 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge. +* skirt hook; +* snaps. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_waist_front`` (A13) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center front; +``height_waist_side`` (A05) + height from the waist to the ground, measured on the side, going over + the hips; +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; +``waist_circ`` (G07) + circumference of the waist; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips. + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``waistband_height`` + e.g. 3 cm; +``placket_width`` + e.g. 3 cm; +``placket_length`` + length of the placket opening, e.g. 28 cm; +``pocket_distance_from_waist`` + how low from the waist the pocket should start, e.g. 6 cm; +``pocket_opening`` + how wide the pocket is, e.g. 18 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket is, e.g. 40 cm (my pocketing material is 80 cm + wide, and I use a full width, with selvedges on both sides); +``height_hem_ground`` + the desired distance from ground to the hem; 10 cm is good for a + walking length skirt. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Straighten the grain of the fabric and cut any big rectangular piece +such as the belt band and strips for a ruffle. + +Cut the main panels of the skirt, first the front and then the back one, +on the fold of the fabric. + +Cut the facing for the placket opening from the narrow leftovers at the +bottom of the front panel, using the selvedge to get one finished edge +on each. + +.. tip:: + + If you are also making a matching waist or jacket, it is often + practical to cut the skirt panels first, and then distribute as many + waist / jacket pieces as possible on the leftovers. + +If desired, cut the front and back panel from the lining. + +Cut the pocket from a sturdy material. + +Cut the facing for the hem. If the main fabric is lightweight or very +draping also cut the placket facing once in the same fabric. + +Sewing preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If lining the skirt, put the lining on top of each panel, wrong sides +together, and baste all four sides; from now on treat as one piece. + +.. figure:: 01-binding_edges.jpg + :align: center + + Binding the edges with a binding foot is faster, but if you don't + have one it can be done with the regular foot by being careful. + +Bind all four long edges of the skirt with bias tape to protect the raw +edges; it's easier to do so now than after the pocket and opening have +been attached. + +.. note:: + + Binding the edges with bias tape is part of my own modern obsession + with fully enclosed raw edges: historically it was done on high-end + garments, but more common alternatives include overcasting the edges + by hand, pinking them or even leaving them raw, especially with + non-fraying wool, and overlocking is of course a valid modern + alternative. + +.. figure:: 02-sewn_darts.png + :align: center + +Fold with right sides facing and sew the first two or three dart pairs +from the center, leaving at least one to be folded in a pleat. Press +towards the sides. + +Placket opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 03-flatlined_placket.jpg + :align: center + +If your fabric needs it, flatline one of the placket facings with the +sturdy fabric, basting all around. + +.. figure:: 04-pinked_placket.jpg + :align: center + +With the wrong side facing up, keep the selvedge of that placket piece +on the right and finish the bottom edge with pinking or by overcasting +the edges (here there will be too much bulk for a bias tape finish). + +.. figure:: 05-sewn_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back piece of the skirt with the right side facing up and place +this placket piece on its left side, right sides facing. Sew with 2 cm +allowance, press towards the placket. + +.. figure:: 06-folded_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the placket piece in half so that it just covers the seam and +stitch in the ditch from the right side to tack it down. + +With the wrong side facing up, keep the selvedge of the other placket +piece on the left and finish the bottom edge as before. + +.. figure:: 07-sewn_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the front piece of the skirt with the rigth side facing up and place +the placket piece on its right side, right sides facing. Sew with 2 cm +allowance, press open and then press towards the skirt. + +.. figure:: 08-folded_placket.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 09-basted_placket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the placket in half so that the selvedges just reaches the seam, +press and baste down the top edge where the waistband will be. + +.. figure:: 10-sewn_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back on the front piecs, right sides together, and sew the side +seam starting from the hem and reaching 1.5 cm into the placket, taking +care to check that this last part perfectly aligns with both seams in +the placket. Check on the right side that the placket aligns smoothly +and that the opening is hidden in the seam and press flat. + +.. figure:: 11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +From the wrong side, extend the two plackets from the skirt, align their +bottom and sew it at 1.4 cm from the edge, stopping just where the side +seam starts. + +Pocket +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 12-pocket_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew one short edge of the pocket to the front panel +between the V notches. Again right sides together, sew the other short +edge of the pocket to the back panel, taking care not to twist the +pocket material. Press the allowances towards the skirt. + +If you didn't use the selvedges finish the raw edges of the pocket. + +.. figure:: 13-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the front and the back of the skirt, right sides facing and with the +pocket extended; starting from the top sew the side seam down to 1.5 cm +into the pocket, backstitch 2-3 stitches for strength. +Start again from the end and sew the rest of the side seam until 1.5 cm +into the pocket, backstitch again 2-3 stitches for strenght. + +.. figure:: 14-check_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +On the right side, check that the pocket is correctly hidden in the seam +and then press the side seam open. + +.. note:: + + Since this pocket doesn't have a facing in the skirt material it + won't be completely hidden from sight, but the amount of material in + that part of the skirt means that gaping should be a rare occurrence, + and anyway it will be further hidden by a pleat. + + +.. figure:: 15-sewn_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sides of the pocket with 1 cm sewing allowance, catching just +the sewing allowances of the pocket, but not those of the skirt. +Finish the raw edges with bias tape, or by overcasting them by hand. + +.. note:: + + This style of pocket isn't tacked down to one side like regular + pockets, because I've found that at times it is useful to be able to + move it either towards the back, so that it is hidden in the fullness + or towards the side, so that it is easier to reach into while sitting + (and safely out of the way of your own *seat*). + +Pleating and waistband +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The full width of the back panel should be reduced to just about 8 cm +starting with an inverted box pleat at the center back and overlapping +knife pleats in the same direction on each side. + +.. figure:: 16-pleated_back.jpg + :align: center + +Using steel pins (so that you can press on top of them) fold, press and +pin each pleat near the top and a few cm down the skirt working from the +center to the sides. + +Without removing the pins, very carefully baste the pleats 1 cm from the +top edge (to do this by machine you may want to crank it by hand, so +that you can easily stop and adjust if the needle is getting too close +to a pin). + +.. note:: + + If you want to add fixed draperies, prepare them and baste them to + the skirt during the next step, so that they are sandwitched bewtween + the right side of the waistband and the right side of the skirt. + +.. figure:: 17-attached_waistband_and_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, place the waistband over the back panel, then find +the middle point of the remaining waistband and pin it to the center +front of the skirt; keep pinning towards the sides until you get close +to the end, and then fold the excess skirt into two pleats that just +about cover the opening placket and the pocket. +Sew at 2 cm from the top, carefully removing the pins from the pleats +just before sewing that part. +Remove also the bottom line of pins, try the skirt on and if everything +is ok press the allowance towards the waistband. + +.. figure:: 18-waistband_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Righe sides together, fold the waistband in half and sew the ends just +where the skirt ends. Press, trim the corners and fold inside out. + +.. figure:: 19-folded_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Press the waistband in half, and then press the raw edge inside so that +the folded edge just touches the waistband seam. Hemstitch by hand to +the skirt to enclose all raw edges. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 19a-elastic_in_the_waistband.jpg + + If you want to wear the skirt both with and without a corset, or if + you suffer from a bit of waistline variation, you can sew a bit of + elastic to the waistband allowances with an elastic seam (here I've + cheated and used 3-step zig-zag) while keeping the elastic under + tension. + + This will gather a bit the waistband over the back, but the effect + will be mild, and it will give a bit of give to make the skirt adapt + more to slightely different waist measurements. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 20-hem_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the sides of the hem facing, press open. Press +2 cm at the top towards the back. + +.. figure:: 21-attached_facing.jpg + :align: center + + +.. figure:: 22-pressed_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing all around the bottom of the skirt, +press open and then press the facing inside the skirt, letting a tiny +bit of the skirt show towards the back. + +Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt by hand. + +Add a protection to the hem of the skirt: either sew an hem protector +tape to the inside or bind the edge with wool braid. + +Sew a skirt hook and bar to the waistband and a combination of snaps and +hook and eyes to the placket. + +Decoration +^^^^^^^^^^ + +Your skirt is already wearable as-is for modern wear; in the late 19th +century it was supposed to be a base for draperies and decoration. + +For draperies, you need reference material (fashion plates, pictures, +original dresses, …) from the specific years you are interested about, +and then you can take a big rectangle of muslin and play with it, +pinning it to the foundation skirt and/or to tape (hint: safety pins are +your friend) until it looks good, and then sewing it down. + +One bit of decoration that was extremely common was a pleated ruffle at +the hem of the skirt, meant to work also as a structural help to keep +the hem spread out and attached either outside (for decoration) or +inside the skirt (to be there just for the structural functionalities). + +To make one, cut enough strips of fabric, 15 cm high, to get a long +strip that is 3 times the width of the skirt about 10 cm from the hem; +sew them selvedge to selvedge, right sides together, and hem the top and +bottom by folding it down twice 8 mm. If you had to cut one end of the +strip instead of using the selvedge also hem the cut end. + +.. figure:: pressing_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from one selvedge, fold, pin and press deep box pleats (4 – 5 +cm per side) until the end of the strip, trying to let the seams fall in +the hidden part of the pleats. + +.. figure:: ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg + :align: center + +You can sew the ruffle either directly to the skirt, or first to tape +and then to the skirt, to make it easier to remove if you want to change +styles. +In either case, sew it about 2 cm from the top of the ruffle, and let +the bottom of the ruffle reach to just below the hem of the skirt (if +sewn outside) or just above (if sewn inside). + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5bea17 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f7c172 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea90d9b Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6494ef1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +******** + Skirts +******** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1892_foundation_skirt/index + -- cgit v1.2.3 From a2675f91e2724a3018ec3a7ab2fb525e292a9430 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 20:04:54 +0200 Subject: Use sphinxcontrib-bibtex to manage the bibliography --- source/bibliography/drafting.bib | 8 ++++++++ source/bibliography/index.rst | 16 ++++++++++++++++ source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 ++++++++ source/conf.py | 8 ++++++++ .../skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst | 4 +--- source/index.rst | 1 + 6 files changed, 42 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/bibliography/drafting.bib create mode 100644 source/bibliography/index.rst create mode 100644 source/bibliography/misc.bib diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed73732 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@Book{1892:cutters + author = {Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.)}, + title = {The cutters’ practical guide to the cutting of ladies’ garments}, + publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, + year = {1892}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", + note = "Drafting manual." +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cafdc6f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +############## + Bibliography +############## + +Drafting Manuals +================ + +.. bibliography:: drafting.bib + :all: + +Miscellaneous +============= + +.. bibliography:: misc.bib + :all: + diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1150537 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@Book{1898:household + author = {Bertha Banner}, + title = {Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking}, + publisher = {Longmans, Green, and co.}, + year = {1898}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/householdsewing00banngoog", + note = "" +} diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index b023889..09c46d8 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -31,6 +31,7 @@ master_doc = 'index' # ones. extensions = [ 'sphinxcontrib.inkscapeconverter', + 'sphinxcontrib.bibtex', ] # Add any paths that contain templates here, relative to this directory. @@ -76,3 +77,10 @@ latex_elements = { ''', 'fncychap': r'\usepackage[Rejne]{fncychap}', } + +# Options for extensions + +bibtex_bibfiles = [ + "bibliography/drafting.bib", + "bibliography/misc.bib", +] diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index 6d63777..cbbcd21 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -4,9 +4,7 @@ .. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg :align: center -A foundation skirt based on the instructions on `The Cutters’ Practical -Guide to the Cutting of Ladies’ Garments -`_ from 1892, +A foundation skirt based on the instructions on :cite:p:`1892:cutters`, adapted to let the hem lie on the cross-grain for ease of cutting, especially when using patterned fabric. diff --git a/source/index.rst b/source/index.rst index 6e92709..879b74a 100644 --- a/source/index.rst +++ b/source/index.rst @@ -57,6 +57,7 @@ Creative Commons, PO Box 1866, Mountain View, CA 94042, USA. historical_womenswear/index historical_menswear/index accessories/index + bibliography/index .. only:: draft -- cgit v1.2.3 From 23c306103e7f79f5f2bcd074e881b6d590ac73e7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 20:14:49 +0200 Subject: More drafting manuals for the bibliography --- source/bibliography/drafting.bib | 18 +++++++++++++++++- 1 file changed, 17 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib index ed73732..4d09b45 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -4,5 +4,21 @@ publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", - note = "Drafting manual." + note = "", +} + +@Book{1909:american + author = {Merwin, Pearl}, + title = {The American system of dressmaking}, + publisher = {Kansas City, Mo., The American College of Dressmaking}, + year = {1909}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw", +} + +@Book{1897:superlative + author = {Stone, Charles John.}, + title = {Superlative system of cutting ladies' garments}, + publisher = {Chicago, The C. J. Stone co. cutting school}, + year = {1897}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/superlativesyste00ston", } -- cgit v1.2.3 From f9d4c69deb02142bd03f32e9dc1e6b8c73217557 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2022 20:27:44 +0200 Subject: Use the old cite role --- source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst | 2 +- 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index cbbcd21..faa4cb2 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ .. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg :align: center -A foundation skirt based on the instructions on :cite:p:`1892:cutters`, +A foundation skirt based on the instructions on :cite:`1892:cutters`, adapted to let the hem lie on the cross-grain for ease of cutting, especially when using patterned fabric. -- cgit v1.2.3 From 7150df49b8e1be7ba46acf2eedd0476273e60ce7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2022 21:09:00 +0200 Subject: More sewing manuals --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 14 ++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 14 insertions(+) diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 1150537..26a36fd 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -6,3 +6,17 @@ url = "https://archive.org/details/householdsewing00banngoog", note = "" } +@Book{1840:workwoman + author = {Workwoman}, + title = {The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing}, + publisher = {}, + year = {1840}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog", +} +@Book{1896:elements + author = {Davis, Jeanette E}, + title = {The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker : being also a handbook for the use of students and for candidates preparing for the examinations in dressmaking under the City and Guilds of London Institute}, + publisher = {}, + year = {1896}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/krl00001156", +} -- cgit v1.2.3 From bcf38f3275e2b414a01ea380450d8b85e6a29f73 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2022 23:24:11 +0200 Subject: A Pair of Pockets, initial instructions. --- source/accessories/bags/index.rst | 1 + source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst | 145 ++++++++++++ .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1251945 bytes .../pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1487794 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf | Bin 0 -> 339303 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg | 256 +++++++++++++++++++++ source/bibliography/index.rst | 5 + source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 + source/bibliography/web.bib | 8 + source/conf.py | 1 + 10 files changed, 424 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg create mode 100644 source/bibliography/web.bib diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst index c8185a8..f85f7fa 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ drawstring_backpack/index modular_backpack_base/index + pair_of_pockets/index diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0630697 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Pair of Pockets +=============== + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg + :align: center + +In the 18th and parts of the 19th century, pockets for women were an +accessory not attached to any garment, but tied around the waist and +worn under the skirt (the more modest and privacy-respecting way) or on +top of it (for convenience, usually done just by the working classes). + +Beside being significantly bigger than what is usually found in modern +womenswear clothing (but not necessarily the ones found in the +ones from the 19th century), they have the advantage of not letting the +weight of the contents hang from the fabric of a garment, and thus they +are a good match to ligtweight skirts or ones made from knit fabric. + +Or, since it's the 2020s and there is no sense of decency anymore :D one +can wear them on top of a pair of jeans, visible to anybody. + +Historical pockets were quite diverse: a good overview of their history +is in :cite:`2019:pocket` (or a very short version in +:cite:`2021:vampockets`), and an internet search will get you lots of +historical examples to reproduce or take inspiration from, as well as +people who made their own pockets and publish instructions, some of +which are listed in the :ref:`pockets_see_also` section. + +This is just one way to make a pair of pockets which works and is easy +enough to do; if you are so inclined the rabbit hole of historical +construction methods can offer you many hours of research and making. + +I sew most of my pockets by hand, as it is a quick and easy project, +but machine sewing is also an option, especially for more modern +variants. To sew by machine, lockstitch where the instructions say to +backstitch, and topstitch instead of hem/applique-stitching. + +Materials +--------- + +* Fabric: about 40 cm of strong cotton or linen; +* optional, about 40 cm of dense cotton or linen for a lining; +* 2.4 m edge binding (bias or straight); +* 1.5 m tape; +* sewing thread. + +This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you +don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical +examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for these pockets is a vaguely pear shaped bag with a slit +in the top half of the front, often more than 40 cm deep. If you're not +reproducing an existing pocket you may want to download my own pattern, +which has the width and height of a B4 sheet and is on the smaller end +of typical historical sizes: + +:download:`pockets_B4.svg` + SVG source, can be scaled to taste; +:download:`pockets_B4-A4.pdf` + PDF, tiled on two A4 sheet; + +Instructions +------------ + +If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric +before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider +leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your +binding. + +Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the +back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may +catch on it) also cut the pattern four times in lining. + +If using a lining, lay it on the wrong side of each panel, baste it and +from now on treat as one. + +Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. + +If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the +raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of +the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. + +If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it +over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and +then hemstitch the wrong side. + +Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges +towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides +to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and +hemstitching to the wrong. + +Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides +together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. + +Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the +slit. + +Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin +the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are +symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. + +.. tip:: + If you're making more than one pair of pockets, put them at different + distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit + better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. + +Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. + +Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, +folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the +tape at the sides; whipstitch the two tapes at the top, enclosing the +raw edge of the pocket. + +Fold down the ends of the long tape, hemstitch them down to finish even +these raw edges. + +Your pair of pockets is done! + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg + :align: center + +.. _pockets_see_also: + +See Also +-------- + +In the 2020s, pockets are IN, at least in the online sewing community: +this is a small selection of people who made their own pockets. + +* `Make your own Pocket (Victoria and Albert Museum) + `_ +* `Pair of pockets (Miss Hendrie's Workbook) + `_ +* `Making an Embroidered Pocket (Tea in a Teacup) + `_ +* `If they can't fit pockets in our clothes, we'll bring back POCKETS AS + FASHION (Bernadette Banners) + `_ +* `Linen pocket (Josefin Waltin spinner) + `_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5f034a Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7617443 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e10997 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4368721 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg @@ -0,0 +1,256 @@ + + + + diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst index cafdc6f..fd75ae4 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/index.rst +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -14,3 +14,8 @@ Miscellaneous .. bibliography:: misc.bib :all: +Websites +======== + +.. bibliography:: web.bib + :all: diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 26a36fd..22ae67e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -20,3 +20,11 @@ year = {1896}, url = "https://archive.org/details/krl00001156", } + +@Book{2019:pocket + author = {Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux}, + title = {The Pocket — A Hidden History of Women's Lives}, + publisher = {Yale University Press}, + year = {2019}, + url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL29481979M/Pocket", +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ca93ae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib @@ -0,0 +1,8 @@ +@misc{2021:vampockets + author = {Victoria and Albert Museum}, + title = {Women's tie-on pockets}, + year = {2021}, + url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets", + note = "Accessed 2022-04-18", +} + diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index 09c46d8..60da271 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -83,4 +83,5 @@ latex_elements = { bibtex_bibfiles = [ "bibliography/drafting.bib", "bibliography/misc.bib", + "bibliography/web.bib", ] -- cgit v1.2.3 From 9ca0f23117ed4a1805924fa0236a5e000b51da76 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2022 15:02:44 +0200 Subject: More pictures in the pair of pockets gallery --- source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst | 16 ++++++++++++++++ .../bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_back.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1560794 bytes .../bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1464117 bytes 3 files changed, 16 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_back.jpg create mode 100644 source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst index 0630697..6b5f105 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -124,6 +124,22 @@ Gallery .. figure:: pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg :align: center + Simple DITTE cotton pockets with tape binding and screenprinted cat + siluettes. + +.. figure:: tactical_front.jpg + :align: center + + As a sort-of-joke, I also made a pocket using technical fabric, a + water repellent zipper and MOLLE webbing, sewn like on the + :doc:`../modular_backpack_base/index`. + +.. figure:: tactical_back.jpg + :align: center + + The back of the same pocket, with two additional belt loops to be + able to wear it also when not using a MOLLE base. + .. _pockets_see_also: See Also diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee74719 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea8a993 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/tactical_front.jpg differ -- cgit v1.2.3 From 7a4da477afcf2a7bfeffd9421e22035e5bb6959a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 2 May 2022 16:52:55 +0200 Subject: New sewing book --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 ++++++++ 1 file changed, 8 insertions(+) diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 22ae67e..f7276a8 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -28,3 +28,11 @@ year = {2019}, url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL29481979M/Pocket", } + +@Book{1916:school + author = {Burton, Ida Robinson and Burton, Myron Garfield}, + title = {School sewing based on home problems}, + publisher = {Muncie, Ind., Vocational Supply Company}, + year = {1916}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/schoolsewingbase00burt", +} -- cgit v1.2.3 From fe5649c2d94109b156a9ae937bf61f97597e871c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2022 07:52:41 +0200 Subject: New patterns: apron and sleevelets. --- source/bibliography/misc.bib | 8 + .../01-cutting_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 928297 bytes .../02-aligning_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1494359 bytes .../03-felled_hem_gores.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1494795 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/04-hem.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1710161 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/05-bands.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1184381 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/06-gathers.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1394033 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/07-sandwich.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1153339 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/09-bib.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1311421 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/10-bib_hems.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1317840 bytes .../11-attaching_bib.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1083004 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/12-band.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1103487 bytes .../20-button_stand.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1095280 bytes .../21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1039805 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/30-pocket.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1555633 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1097679 bytes .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg | Bin 0 -> 974781 bytes .../cutting_pattern.svg | 207 +++++++++++++++++++++ .../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst | 183 ++++++++++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst | 11 ++ .../accessories/sleevelets/index.rst | 111 +++++++++++ .../sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val | 104 +++++++++++ source/historical_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + 23 files changed, 625 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg create mode 100644 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a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index f7276a8..a4b894c 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -36,3 +36,11 @@ year = {1916}, url = "https://archive.org/details/schoolsewingbase00burt", } + +@Book{1892:home + author = {Myers, Annie E}, + title = {Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing}, + publisher = {Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company}, + year = {1892}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4f65dc Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d71ef1 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg 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b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ea0936 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg @@ -0,0 +1,207 @@ + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb7cf5e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,183 @@ +Full Apron with Bib from Modern Fabric +====================================== + +.. figure:: apron.jpg + :align: center + +This apron is inspired on the instructions from :cite:`1892:home` (pag +137) from 1892, adapted for modern, double-width fabric. + +The original instructions claimed that the apron without a bib could be +sewn in one hour by machine, and even with the bib and a pocket it is a +quick and easy project. + +The adaptation kept the selvedges on the sides, and most of the +construction methods, but significantly changed the original +proportions: the side gores are half as wide, their selvedge length is a +bit shorter and the band is shorter and narrower. The hem in these +instructions is also much narrower, but that can be easily changed back +to the recommended 8 cm. + +For cutting efficiency there is also some piecing, most notably on the +bib, which probably wouldn't have been needed, but then *piecing is +period, period*. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~1 m washable fabric ~150 cm wide. + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good for a serviceable working apron; the original instructions +recommended gingham. The pattern requires a fabric that has no right or +wrong side, as half of the bib will have to show the wrong side. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* tape for ties or two buttons and button twist thread; +* 2 safety pins. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure the desired lenght of the apron, add 5 cm for the hem, cut a +rectangle of fabric of that length, selvedge to selvedge, on the straigh +grain (either by ripping or cutting on a thread). + +.. figure:: cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +Cut on the straight grain two panels on the sides, each one quarter of +the width of the fabric, leaving a center panel that is twice as wide. + +.. figure:: 01-cutting_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Now cut two side gores such that the diagonal is as long as the length +of the center panel; for a 100 cm long panel this will be a bit more +than 90 cm, leaving a rectangle a bit less than 10 cm high for the band. + +Decide how high you want the bib to be, and cut two trapeziums from the +remaining triangles such that when sewn together they will form a +square with that side. + +From the remaining fabric you'll cut a base for buttons and a pocket. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 02-aligning_gores.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-felled_hem_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Align the bias edge of a side panel at half the sewing allowance +distance from the edge of the front panel, sew, press towards the side +panel, fold down the front panel edge and topstitch. Repeat on the other +side. + +.. figure:: 04-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the bottom edge: fold it down by 2 cm twice, rounding the corners, +topstitch. The side edges won't need an hem because they use the +selvedge. + +.. figure:: 05-bands.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the a band piece in half lengthwise, sew the two short edges without +selvedge and press open; repeat for the other band piece. + + +.. figure:: 06-gathers.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 07-sandwich.jpg + :align: center + + +Run two rows of gathering stitches at the top of the apron, gather it to +46 cm; sandwich it between the two bands, centered on them, and sew +from one selvedge to the other of the band. +Press the allowances up. + +.. figure:: 09-bib.jpg + :align: center + +Align the two bias edges of the bib at half an allowance of distance +from each other, sew, press towards the short side, fold down the long +allowance and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 10-bib_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top and sides of the bib with a 1 cm hem with mitered corners. + + +.. figure:: 11-attaching_bib.jpg + :align: center + +Put the right side of the bib centered on the right side of the front +band, sew, press towards the band all allowances, including the ones to +the side of the band. + +.. figure:: 12-band.jpg + :align: center + +Press also the back band, topstitch close to both borders of the band. + +Ties +^^^^ + +If you want to close the apron with ties, sew them to the ends of the +band, long enough to go around the waist and tie in front; finish the +ends. + +Button closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The band will probably be too short to go around the waist, so you will +have to make a small extension with two buttons. + +Make two buttonholes at the ends of the band. + +From the leftovers, cut a rectangle long enough to go from below one +buttonhole to the other one with the apron around the waist, plus sewing +allowance, and four time as high as the finished band. + +.. figure:: 20-button_stand.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it in half, then fold the allowances towards the center: you will +get a rectangle made of four layers of fabric, press. +Fold the ends in, press. + +Topstitch all around this rectangle, close to the border. + +.. figure:: 21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + +Add two buttons at the ends. + +Pocket +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 30-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +When you've finished adding parts to the apron, you can cut a pocket +from whatever leftovers you still have, hem all sides with a 1 cm hem, +and topstitch to the front of the apron. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: apron_front.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..93946fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +************* + Accessories +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index + sleevelets/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b06d6d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,111 @@ +Sleevelets +========== + +.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg + :align: center + +Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on +:cite:`1916:school` from 1916. + +They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project, +suitable for beginners. + +This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at +the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in +the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed +and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed. +In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic +anyway. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~35 cm washable fabric + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the +kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 2 small buttons; +* 60–70 cm elastic (optional). + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the +following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables: + +``#elbow_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm; +``#wrist_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the + ``#elbow_width``; +``#length`` + length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the + original instructions this was 30 cm; +``#cuff_circ`` + the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm; +``#cuff_height`` + height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure. + +Instructions +------------ + +Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut +two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material +doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce +waste. + +From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as +the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and +sew all around with a 2 mm allowance. Carefully cut the slit, turn the +facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all +sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by +machine or hemstitch by hand. + +Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with +wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside +out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance. +Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to +press in the opposite direction. + +Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand. + +.. note:: + + If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long + enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly. + +With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and +sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the +rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1 +cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and +press towards the cuff. Fold the other allowance of the cuff and +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances. + +Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to +the other end. + +Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where +they don't interfere with the use of the hands. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f5cd1a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val @@ -0,0 +1,104 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Sleevelet after School Sewing based on Home Problems by Burton & Burton, p. 73 + + Sleevelet + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 86dae5a..d67d4c7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,3 +11,4 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + accessories/index -- cgit v1.2.3 From bcec4c15ce26bcc33efcc2cd8bc5f9f41038f55e Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2022 08:01:47 +0200 Subject: Fix name of generic aldrich measurements --- source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit | 2 +- 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit index 337f953..512f624 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ cm 42 - EoV + Size 14

1800-01-01

female -- cgit v1.2.3 From 5a55066a98ecb949e8353ac3073eb076092cf18f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2022 18:20:40 +0200 Subject: Start working on a pattern for leggings --- source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst | 1 + source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst | 10 ++ .../trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst | 82 +++++++++++ .../trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val | 153 +++++++++++++++++++++ 4 files changed, 246 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 1dd5d41..437fa2e 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,4 +9,5 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + trousers/index measurements/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..190e7b9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********** + Trousers +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + leggins_shorts/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a774cf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,82 @@ +Leggings / Shorts +================= + +.. figure:: leggings.jpg + :align: center + + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* 2 cm wide elastic, enough to go around the waist; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich` + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``rise_length_side`` (N08) + vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level. +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips. +``leg_ankle_high_circ `` (M08) + ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is + the deepest. + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`leggings.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following +increments that need to be set: + +``front_curve_distance`` + 2.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 2.5 cm otherwise; +``back_curve_distance`` + 3.75 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4 cm otherwise; +``back_raise`` + how much the back should be higher than the front; 3 cm for people + who are less curvy, 5 cm is good for moderately curvy people; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the two legs on folded fabric. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + All seams are sewn with a french seam: wrong sides facing sew with a + 8 mm allowance + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6e6377 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val @@ -0,0 +1,153 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Based on the close fitting leggings block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition. + + Leggings + + + + + + + + + + + ../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 68 + 69 + + +

+ + + -- cgit v1.2.3 From 1166e9af566b4baa9e79f93f0ebb318f5679163a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2022 15:16:30 +0200 Subject: Exclude git config files from the exported archives --- .gitattributes | 1 + 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+) create mode 100644 .gitattributes diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e6e374 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1 @@ +.gitignore export-ignore -- cgit v1.2.3 From d227aab83dca4f676b23fc697fe6e7f5cddb23e2 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2022 15:19:49 +0200 Subject: source tarballs --- source/index.rst | 6 +++++- 1 file changed, 5 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/source/index.rst b/source/index.rst index 879b74a..d460437 100644 --- a/source/index.rst +++ b/source/index.rst @@ -24,7 +24,11 @@ are also available; note however that this document is pretty image heavy, and may not load correctly in many ebook readers. The PDF and epub versions also don't include the patterns which can be -downloaded from this website in valentina or PDF format. +downloaded from this website in valentina or PDF format, or as the `full +website source zip archive +`_ or +`website source tarball +`_. There is also a `companion website for fiber craft patterns `_. -- cgit v1.2.3 From b9ea3f4dd4fe3551f047466435372d38afa671d4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2022 19:48:19 +0200 Subject: Don't export .gitattributes --- .gitattributes | 1 + 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+) diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes index 2e6e374..de2f316 100644 --- a/.gitattributes +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -1 +1,2 @@ .gitignore export-ignore +.gitattributes export-ignore -- cgit v1.2.3 From ffa18e92d15e55b36888151ed0997b4095a86d07 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2022 18:08:45 +0200 Subject: seams --- .../trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst | 17 ++++++++++++++--- 1 file changed, 14 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-) diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst index 4a774cf..fc689c4 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,8 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch. +* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch for full-length leggins, about + 1 m for shorts. Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -74,8 +75,18 @@ Sewing ^^^^^^ .. note:: - All seams are sewn with a french seam: wrong sides facing sew with a - 8 mm allowance + All seams are sewn with a french seam, using a narrow zig-zag + stitch. + + For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm + allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one + side. + + Alternatively, they can be sewn with a flat felled seam on the + *right* side of the garment, again with a narrow zig-zag stitch: + wrong sides facing sew with a 2 cm allowance, trim one of the + allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover + all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge. Gallery ------- -- cgit v1.2.3 From 8ff148f73762a27cc13b1bd0c6e471be1dbd65dd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2022 16:45:56 +0200 Subject: Leggings: finished pattern --- .../measurements/aldrich/index.rst | 4 +- source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst | 2 +- .../trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1604284 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1433995 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1353143 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1431401 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1443015 bytes .../trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst | 46 +++++++++++-- .../trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val | 76 +++++++-------------- 9 files changed, 70 insertions(+), 58 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst index a1258a9..3fc9e55 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ -Aldrich -======= +Aldrich Drafting System +======================= The file :download:`aldrich.vit` includes the measurements used by the patterns based on blocks from `Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst index 190e7b9..ffb0630 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,5 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: - leggins_shorts/index + leggings_shorts/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f56f7a1 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f0780d Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..67183ca Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..72c9df9 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..04f444c Binary files /dev/null and b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg differ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst index fc689c4..531f9d1 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -1,9 +1,10 @@ Leggings / Shorts ================= -.. figure:: leggings.jpg +.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg :align: center +These are simple leggings with an elastic waist. Materials --------- @@ -26,7 +27,7 @@ Pattern Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ -This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich` +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. You need to take the following measurements: @@ -37,12 +38,12 @@ You need to take the following measurements: going over the buttocks; ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -``leg_ankle_high_circ `` (M08) +``leg_ankle_high_circ`` (M08) ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is the deepest. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ @@ -63,6 +64,11 @@ increments that need to be set: ``sewing_allowance`` enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. +If you want to make shorts rather than full leggins, measure from the +waist down the side the desired length, copy that measurement on the +pattern on the grain indicator line, add 2 cm for the hem and fold back +the pattern perpendicularly to the grain line. + Instructions ------------ @@ -88,6 +94,36 @@ Sewing allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge. +.. figure:: 01-inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the legs and sew the inseam. + +.. figure:: 03-crotch_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Turn one leg inside out; place them one inside the other and sew the +crotch seam. + +.. figure:: 05-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the legs towards the inside by 2 cm, sew from the right side with a +triple zig-zag or another decorative *elastic* stitch. + +.. figure:: 07-pinned_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Cut enough elastic to go confortably while a little taut around the +waist, find the half and quarter points and pin them to the +corresponding points on the waist, folding down the edge to cover it. + +.. figure:: 09-sewn_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Sew from the right side with the same stitch used for the hem, while +keeping the elastic taut. + Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val index d6e6377..a4271a7 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val @@ -66,51 +66,27 @@ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

@@ -122,19 +98,19 @@ - + - + - + - - + + -- cgit v1.2.3