From 2a49131aad5986548c02b0d6a201595c1fbdca2b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2022 20:47:11 +0100 Subject: Start writing pattern for a nightgown --- .../underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst | 135 ++++++++++++++++++ .../liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val | 151 +++++++++++++++++++++ 2 files changed, 286 insertions(+) create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst create mode 100644 source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e18d60a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,135 @@ +Liliana Nightgown +================= + +.. .. figure:: + :align: center + + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric. + +Yarn +^^^^ + +* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread matching the yarn; +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Yoke Pattern +------------ + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. + +the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`. + +Fabric Pattern +-------------- + +After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end +of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for +sewing allowances. + +The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance +measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` +measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. + +The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length +of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Yoke +^^^^ + +Following the shape of the pattern, ignoring the sewing allowances, make +the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding +a decorative pattern to the front. + +Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to +make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with +sewing allowances. + +Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is +appropriate for the tecnique used. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the +body and the two sleeves. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the +fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. + +Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are +covered and topstitch. + +Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, +sew about 2 mm from the fold. + +Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and +fold down its top edge. + +Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your +machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use +that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple +straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the +body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any +scalloped edge of the yoke. + +Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the +excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the +sides. + +Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the +armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..be2b221 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val @@ -0,0 +1,151 @@ + + + + 0.9.0 + cm + Sleeping gown with crochet yoke + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition. + + Liliana Nightgown Yoke + + + + + + + + + + + ../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
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