From 183d6f20b931d269f79ec0cb470f98102c656e90 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2025 19:54:29 +0200
Subject: prepared pattern

---
 .../bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val      | 203 ++++++++++-----------
 1 file changed, 101 insertions(+), 102 deletions(-)

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val
index 3b76bea..361c72a 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val
@@ -13,13 +13,13 @@
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
     </patternLabel>
-    <measurements path="cutters.vit"/>
+    <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/>
     <increments>
-        <increment description="usually 5 cm" formula="5" name="#skirt_length"/>
-        <increment formula="30" name="#skirt_spring_angle" specialUnits="true"/>
-        <increment description="from waist, usually 9 cm" formula="9" name="#vest_length_in_front"/>
+        <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center front" formula="5" name="#vest_length_in_front"/>
+        <increment description="vertical distance between the bust line and the neckline" formula="5" name="#bust_to_neckline_front"/>
+        <increment description="vertical distance from the nape of the neck to the neckline in the back" formula="3" name="#nape_to_neckline_back"/>
+        <increment formula="7" name="#shoulder_strap_width"/>
         <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/>
-        <increment formula="2" name="#button_stand"/>
         <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/>
         <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
     </increments>
@@ -38,15 +38,6 @@
             <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="11" length="bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" name="AO" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point firstPoint="4" id="13" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="13" id="14" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="-30" angle2="180" color="black" id="15" length1="2" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="4" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="16" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="12" type="simpleInteractive"/>
-            <point angle="270" basePoint="14" id="17" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="270 - 30" basePoint="4" id="18" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="270 + 30" basePoint="12" id="19" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="180 + 30" angle2="0" color="black" id="20" length1="4" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="19" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="- 30" color="black" id="21" length1="6" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="18" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="22" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="11" id="23" mx="0.178945" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="23" id="24" length="-2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" name="A1w" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -62,71 +53,70 @@
             <line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point id="38" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
-            <point firstPoint="24" id="39" length="CurrentLength - waist_circ / 4 - #ease / 4" lineColor="cornflowerblue" mx="-6.06291" my="2.29511" name="Atotal_darts" secondPoint="38" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="38" id="40" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="40" id="41" length="Line_A1w_Atotal_darts / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="41" id="42" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="42" id="43" length="Line_A1w_Atotal_darts / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <arc aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="300" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="44" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/>
-            <point firstPoint="40" id="45" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="41" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="42" id="46" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="43" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="45" curve="44" id="47" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="46" curve="44" id="50" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point firstPoint="45" id="53" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="47" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point firstPoint="46" id="54" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="50" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="270 - 20" basePoint="24" id="55" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="38" id="56" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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-            <point id="61" length="CurrentLength - Line_A2_A3" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2a" showLabel="true" spline="15" type="cutSpline"/>
-            <point id="62" length="Line_A3_A9q" mx="-1.38708" my="0.562041" name="A9qa" showLabel="true" spline="16" type="cutSpline"/>
             <line firstPoint="6" id="63" lineColor="black" secondPoint="10" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_Aqqq_AOS - 90 + 30" angle2="180" color="black" id="64" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="86" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="6" id="122" mx="0.864136" my="-1.90141" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="29" id="123" mx="-3.03296" my="-2.80074" name="A26" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" color="black" id="128" length1="10" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="130" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="130" id="131" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="131" id="132" length="CurrentLength + Line_A10_A11 - (waist_circ + #ease) / 4 " lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="131" id="133" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="132" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="133" curve="44" id="134" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="133" id="137" length="-#length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="134" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="130" id="138" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="0" color="black" id="139" length1="4" length2="waist_circ * 0.32" penStyle="hair" point1="138" point4="24" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <line firstPoint="132" id="143" lineColor="black" secondPoint="137" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="131" id="144" lineColor="black" secondPoint="137" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="AngleLine_A11_A15" basePoint="137" curve="139" id="145" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="AngleLine_A12_A15" basePoint="137" curve="139" id="146" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="33" id="155" length="#shoulder_strap_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="29" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="156" length="#shoulder_strap_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="159" length="-#bust_to_neckline_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="130" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" angle2="180" color="black" id="160" length1="16" length2="16" penStyle="hair" point1="155" point4="159" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="29" id="164" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="159" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="169" length="#nape_to_neckline_back" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A1_A - 90" angle2="AngleLine_Aqqq_AOS - 90" color="black" id="170" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="169" point4="156" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="6" curve="170" id="174" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
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+            <point id="67" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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-            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="112" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+            <point id="107" idObject="57" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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@@ -135,12 +125,12 @@
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+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="118" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="113" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="114" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -157,11 +147,40 @@
                     <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
             <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
             <point id="127" idObject="123" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
             <spline id="129" idObject="128" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="140" idObject="130" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="141" idObject="138" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="142" idObject="139" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="149" idObject="146" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="150" idObject="132" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="151" idObject="134" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="152" idObject="131" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="153" idObject="145" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="154" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="149" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="150" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="151" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="152" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="153" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
+            <point id="161" idObject="155" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="162" idObject="160" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="163" idObject="159" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="165" idObject="164" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="166" idObject="157" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="167" idObject="158" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="168" idObject="156" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="171" idObject="169" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="172" idObject="170" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="173" idObject="156" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="177" idObject="174" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="178" idObject="174" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b1d0d5dd-475a-4f02-b7a1-7f5a4b496642}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
@@ -171,44 +190,24 @@
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="284.017" my="674.541" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="125" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="124" visible="true"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="125" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="178" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
-                    <node idObject="65" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="66" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="171" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="172" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="168" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node excluded="true" idObject="177" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <pins>
-                    <record>124</record>
                     <record>125</record>
+                    <record>178</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="85" mx="0" my="0" name="back_skirt" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{43c26b52-8a36-4d2c-91bd-000fbc2fb6dc}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
-                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="381.201" my="1620.16" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
-                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
-                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
-                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
-                </data>
-                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="566.601" my="1632" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
-                <nodes>
-                    <node idObject="75" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="76" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="82" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="83" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
-                    <node idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/>
-                </nodes>
-            </detail>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="99" mx="0.10437" my="-0.10437" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{f1e881f0-b1ee-4701-90c9-c902a6b60ca6}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="1453.9" my="781.047" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
@@ -216,27 +215,27 @@
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
-                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="126" visible="true"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="165" visible="true"/>
                 <nodes>
                     <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="88" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="89" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="162" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="163" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/>
-                    <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="140" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="141" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="142" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                     <node idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/>
                     <node idObject="129" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
                 </nodes>
                 <iPaths>
-                    <record path="112"/>
-                    <record path="118"/>
                     <record path="121"/>
+                    <record path="154"/>
                 </iPaths>
                 <pins>
-                    <record>126</record>
                     <record>127</record>
+                    <record>165</record>
                 </pins>
             </detail>
         </details>
-- 
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