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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2019-04-25 15:18:44 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2019-04-25 15:18:44 +0200
commit2eccec242854af48fc729a81b36b98ec76d0bd12 (patch)
treed281ab339be132fcd557b05113662ce983d5d497
parent97ba87c12e80935f7e0261b64dc53a3ca76d8282 (diff)
American System waist: small improvementsHEADmaster
-rw-r--r--american_system_dressmaking/waist.val291
1 files changed, 146 insertions, 145 deletions
diff --git a/american_system_dressmaking/waist.val b/american_system_dressmaking/waist.val
index bfe3fb1..a16c5dd 100644
--- a/american_system_dressmaking/waist.val
+++ b/american_system_dressmaking/waist.val
@@ -7,13 +7,14 @@
<notes/>
<measurements>measurements.vit</measurements>
<increments>
- <increment description="Distance between center front and neck. Formula is valid for neck circ between 25 and 37 cm." formula="5 + (neck_mid_circ - 25) / 4" name="#neck_point_from_origin"/>
+ <increment description="Distance between center front and neck. Formula is valid for neck circ between 25 and 37 cm." formula="6.35 + (neck_mid_circ - 30) / 4" name="#neck_point_from_origin"/>
<increment description="distance between the dart at their apices" formula="6" name="#dart_distance"/>
<increment description="width of the first dart on the waistline" formula="3.8" name="#front_dart_width"/>
<increment description="width of the second dart on the waistline" formula="(bust_circ - waist_circ) / 4" name="#back_dart_width"/>
<increment description="distance between darts on waistline" formula="1.8" name="#dart_distance_waist"/>
<increment description="width of the center back at the waistline" formula="3.8" name="#center_back_width"/>
<increment description="" formula="8" name="#cuff_height"/>
+ <increment description="" formula="1.5" name="#default_allowance"/>
</increments>
<previewCalculations/>
<draw name="block">
@@ -177,23 +178,23 @@
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</calculation>
<modeling>
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+ <spline id="110" idObject="31" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="111" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="104" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
@@ -205,15 +206,15 @@
<node idObject="110" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
</nodes>
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- <path cut="true" firstToCountour="false" id="120" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="second_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
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<nodes>
<node idObject="112" type="NodePoint"/>
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@@ -225,147 +226,147 @@
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- <point id="239" idObject="196" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
- <point id="240" idObject="237" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
- <point id="241" idObject="237" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
- <point id="242" idObject="191" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="243" idObject="193" inUse="true" mx="-1.48412" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="244" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="elbow_line" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="179" idObject="176" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="180" idObject="177" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="181" idObject="178" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="211" idObject="189" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="212" idObject="198" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="213" idObject="197" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="214" idObject="199" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="215" idObject="195" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="216" idObject="208" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="217" idObject="194" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="218" idObject="209" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="219" idObject="188" inUse="false" mx="-0.122932" my="0.604881" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="220" idObject="203" inUse="false" mx="-0.973677" my="0.519807" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="221" idObject="204" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="222" idObject="191" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="223" idObject="201" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="225" idObject="189" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="226" idObject="210" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="227" idObject="196" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="228" idObject="206" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="229" idObject="193" inUse="false" mx="-1.48412" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="230" idObject="207" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="231" idObject="187" inUse="false" mx="-1.05875" my="0.689956" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="232" idObject="202" inUse="false" mx="-0.548304" my="0.604881" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="233" idObject="205" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="234" idObject="191" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="235" idObject="201" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="238" idObject="197" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="239" idObject="196" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="240" idObject="237" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="241" idObject="237" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="242" idObject="191" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="243" idObject="193" inUse="false" mx="-1.48412" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="244" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="elbow_line" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="242" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="243" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
- <point id="245" idObject="191" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="246" idObject="194" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="247" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="elbow_line" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="245" idObject="191" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="246" idObject="194" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="247" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="elbow_line" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="245" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="246" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
- <point id="280" idObject="248" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="281" idObject="260" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="282" idObject="259" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="283" idObject="261" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <spline id="284" idObject="262" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="285" idObject="254" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="286" idObject="269" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="287" idObject="250" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="288" idObject="251" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="289" idObject="270" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="290" idObject="255" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="291" idObject="265" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="292" idObject="264" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="293" idObject="266" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="294" idObject="257" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="295" idObject="267" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="297" idObject="248" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
- <point id="298" idObject="249" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
- <point id="299" idObject="274" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="300" idObject="277" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="301" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="cuff_cut_line" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="280" idObject="248" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="281" idObject="260" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="282" idObject="259" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="283" idObject="261" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <spline id="284" idObject="262" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="285" idObject="254" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="286" idObject="269" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="287" idObject="250" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="288" idObject="251" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="289" idObject="270" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="290" idObject="255" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="291" idObject="265" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="292" idObject="264" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="293" idObject="266" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="294" idObject="257" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="295" idObject="267" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="297" idObject="248" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="298" idObject="249" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="299" idObject="274" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="300" idObject="277" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="301" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="cuff_cut_line" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="299" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="300" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
- <point id="302" idObject="272" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="303" idObject="273" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="true" firstToCountour="false" id="304" inUse="true" lastToCountour="false" name="cuff_slit" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="302" idObject="272" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="303" idObject="273" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="true" firstToCountour="false" id="304" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="cuff_slit" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="302" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="303" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -373,7 +374,7 @@
</path>
</modeling>
<details>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="102" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="102" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="123" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="124" visible="true"/>
@@ -396,7 +397,7 @@
<record>124</record>
</pins>
</detail>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="138" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="center_back" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="138" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="center_back" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" centerPin="179" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="true"/>
@@ -422,7 +423,7 @@
<record>179</record>
</pins>
</detail>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="154" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="first_side" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="154" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="first_side" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" centerPin="180" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="true"/>
@@ -450,7 +451,7 @@
<record>180</record>
</pins>
</detail>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="166" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="second_side" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="166" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="second_side" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" centerPin="181" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="true"/>
@@ -474,7 +475,7 @@
<record>181</record>
</pins>
</detail>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="224" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="upper_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="224" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="upper_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="240" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="238" visible="true"/>
@@ -501,7 +502,7 @@
<record>240</record>
</pins>
</detail>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="236" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="lower_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="236" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="lower_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="241" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="239" visible="true"/>
@@ -526,7 +527,7 @@
<record>241</record>
</pins>
</detail>
- <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="296" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="shirtwaist_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="1">
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="296" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0" name="shirtwaist_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="#default_allowance">
<data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="" mx="0" my="0" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="false" width="1"/>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/>
<grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="298" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="297" visible="true"/>